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mysterync 03-01-2014 08:50 PM


Originally Posted by novapat (Post 1051612)
I don't need luck there skippy.. you guys are the ones trying to do trans. repairs yourself. mine runs and I build other peoples.. no luck needed there.. just need more hour in a day!!

You go on and enjoy your troll p!ssing match. As for working on other people's stuff, if you really did you would know that all data or one of the other fine information sources is REQUIRED for torque specs and other information needed to properly repair and diagnose moder vehicles. With the number of vehicles on the road today there is no possible way to perform automotive repairs without it. So you go on spouting about your thirty years experience, but just know this 7 year rookie shop owner knows you are absolutely full of it. In fact it's my belief that if you are in fact a technician that your practices are exactly what gives the automotive repair field a bad name. Your right, you might not damage anything but I prefer not to take that chance. I've been working with our transmission builder for about 9 years now and know him well. I can assure you he uses a slide hammer as a pump puller where recommended by the manual. I can also tell you he has the transmission manuals on the shelf. I can finish by saying this, there's no way an experienced automotive technician would bring this dialog to the table...Wana know why? Because they know better!

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the.beard 03-01-2014 09:00 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Ok, this is why it should be done correctly and you should never use a pry bar or screwdriver to remove the front pump assembly from the transmission.

1: This is the front of the pump as you'd see it while mounted in the transmission (bellhousing side). Notice that only two of the holes are threaded, the one at 9 o'clock and the one at 3 o'clock. This is specifically so the front pump could be pulled with a slide hammer from the outside evenly.
Attachment 33341

2: This is the pump assembly as it's mounted to the clutch retainers, or drums, inside the transmission. As it sits in the picture, the bellhousing would be at 12 o'clock and the tail shaft pointing 6 o'clock. As you can see, if the front band (not shown, clamps onto the front drum's nice, big machined surface) is tightened, it's retained in the transmission while the pump is removed. The pump housing, stator (not shown; it's mounted to the back of the pump housing), stator support and pump seal all come out together as one assembly. The drums and input shaft are left behind. It's virtually impossible to damage any bearings or the one thrust washer you'll encounter at this point.
Attachment 33342

3: This is the fiber thrust washer in question (the rest of the thrust washers are still inside the transmission, well out of harm's way, at this point). It must spec between .061" and .063" for the correct transmission internal clearance.
Attachment 33343

4: this is why you never use a pry bar or screwdriver to remove the pump: Aside from the fact that a pry bar can damage the machined surfaces of the pump and case, you can see that it's very easy to completely wreck the thrust washer by wedging something between the front drum and the pump where it sits.
Attachment 33344

novapat 03-01-2014 09:07 PM

I build engines and transmission not the whole car knuckle head. The only thing you need on testing shift sol. and temp. switches is a multi meter.on the newer trans. other than that the mech. function is relatively the same.. newer transmissions norm. run looser clutch pack tolerances than the older ones. your correct I don't know nothing on the modern car computer systems and don't want to know.. hell I cant post pics. on my computer!! LOL I would bet cat man would just throw the new thrust washers in the trans and not check endplay on the front or rear shafts.. common mistake made everyday. but yet again he prob. wont change them because he will have to buy another 10 tool...:c:

mysterync 03-01-2014 09:09 PM


Originally Posted by novapat (Post 1051620)
I build engines and transmission not the whole car knuckle head. The only thing you need on testing shift sol. and temp. switches is a multi meter.on the newer trans. other than that the mech. function is relatively the same.. newer transmissions norm. run looser clutch pack tolerances than the older ones. your correct I don't know nothing on the modern car computer systems and don't want to know.. hell I cant post pics. on my computer!! LOL I would bet cat man would just throw the new thrust washers in the trans and not check endplay on the front or rear shafts.. common mistake made everyday. but yet again he prob. wont change them because he will have to buy another 10 tool...:c:

This kid is a troll. Can someone ban him?

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novapat 03-01-2014 09:12 PM


Originally Posted by the.beard (Post 1051619)
Ok, this is why it should be done correctly and you should never use a pry bar or screwdriver to remove the front pump assembly from the transmission.

1: This is the front of the pump as you'd see it while mounted in the transmission (bellhousing side). Notice that only two of the holes are threaded, the one at 9 o'clock and the one at 3 o'clock. This is specifically so the front pump could be pulled with a slide hammer from the outside evenly.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps83254aaa.jpg

2: This is the pump assembly as it's mounted to the clutch retainers, or drums, inside the transmission. As it sits in the picture, the bellhousing would be at 12 o'clock and the tail shaft pointing 6 o'clock. As you can see, if the front band (not shown, clamps onto the front drum's nice, big machined surface) is tightened, it's retained in the transmission while the pump is removed. The pump housing, stator (not shown; it's mounted to the back of the pump housing), stator support and pump seal all come out together as one assembly. The drums and input shaft are left behind. It's virtually impossible to damage any bearings or the one thrust washer you'll encounter at this point.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps83b9e0b2.jpg

3: This is the fiber thrust washer in question (the rest of the thrust washers are still inside the transmission, well out of harm's way, at this point). It must spec between .061" and .063" for the correct transmission internal clearance.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps39dfc61e.jpg

4: this is why you never use a pry bar or screwdriver to remove the pump: Aside from the fact that a pry bar can damage the machined surfaces of the pump and case, you can see that it's very easy to completely wreck the thrust washer by wedging something between the front drum and the pump where it sits.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps66c11e7a.jpg

exactly!!! you wouldn't do it there retard....fail!!! Go feed the cat!!!

---AutoMerged DoublePost---


Originally Posted by mysterync (Post 1051621)
This kid is a troll. Can someone ban him?

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why you mad?? oh ya i was not going to know any of that... gotcha!!!lol kid??? o wow i wish!!

mysterync 03-01-2014 09:15 PM


Originally Posted by novapat (Post 1051622)
exactly!!! you wouldn't do it there retard....fail!!! Go feed the cat!!!

---AutoMerged DoublePost---



why you mad?? oh ya i was not going to know any of that... gotcha!!!lol kid??? o wow i wish!!

Rofl!!!! Right because you post actually contains knowledge??? Yea...There again. Might convince a newbie of that but I'm not falling for your crap pal. And no I'm not the least bit mad. However I know your just a troll. Maybe you should research troll? You might understand why I recommend that you be banned? If you think I'm going to let some forum troll under my skin you must be pretty stoopid lol :D And btw tell me again how you check temp and pressure sensors without alldata? Oh those aren't on older transmissions...except for the ones built in the 90s?

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the.beard 03-01-2014 09:17 PM


Originally Posted by mysterync (Post 1051621)
This kid is a troll. Can someone ban him?

I second that.


Originally Posted by novapat (Post 1051622)
exactly!!! you wouldn't do it there retard....fail!!! Go feed the cat!!!

I wouldn't do it anywhere. You really are a special brand of stupid, aren't you?

novapat 03-01-2014 09:19 PM

ya don't need to.. if your that dumb than that's on you!! another FAIL lol

---AutoMerged DoublePost---


Originally Posted by the.beard (Post 1051625)
I second that.



I wouldn't do it anywhere. You really are a special brand of stupid, aren't you?

ya what ever you say mr 2 day trans builder..lol

the.beard 03-01-2014 09:22 PM

This forum's going to get a real bad reputation real fast with this guy lurking around. Damned shame.

novapat 03-01-2014 09:25 PM

you have only been here 2 months and your coming up with this?? haha what a nerd!!
To bad you didn't have something positive to share on this site and good tech info..


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