$10 Front Pump Puller
 

Just thought I'd put it out there that the Bondo slide hammer (p/n 953; also available labeled as a 3M Corp. tool) already has the correct 3/8-16 threaded end for proper removal of all 727-based transmissions (A727, A518, A618, 46RH, 47RH/RE) and can be had at chain auto parts stores for $10 and as low as $5 on Ebay.

Just a cheap alternative to an expensive specialty tool and faster than fabbing your own up.

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also when the vb. is out its easy to go from the inside and just pop it out with a pry bar or large screw driver. always seem the easiest for me!!:c:

That's why I said "proper removal". :tu:

The proper way is to push the pump out evenly or pull it out evenly with a puller that attaches on the outside of the pump that pulls the pump and pushes in on the shaft that goes into the forward drum.. not with a 10 dollar slide hammer from one side. some people refuse to do things the correct was..:c:

Says the guy who pries his pumps out from behind with a screwdriver? Pfft.

I think the engineers at Chrysler are the go-to authorities when it comes to properly removing the front pump on the transmission they designed. Nothing in the literature says anything about pushing it out from the rear (you can only push it out from the bottom of the pump, anyway, possibly cocking it sideways in the housing). The proper way, according to Chrysler, is to either use two slide hammers simultaneously or use one slide hammer, alternating between the two threaded removal points. I bet you're the type of person who uses a claw hammer on his truck.

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The shop manual calls for Chrysler's p/n c-3752. Funny, it looks a lot more like my $10 slide hammer than a screwdriver. :humm:

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Don't be upset because I have already clowned you in other topics..LOL Using 2 pry bars and pushing the pump outwards is much better than a slide hammer that will break thrust washers, sealing rings and bushings.. your prob. the guy that hits the mac tool truck and buys tools that has no idea how to use them.. I ask questions when I don't know. (like the injector thread) you seem to think you know everything on every topic.. I don't but I do when it comes to internal engine and trans building.. so go crawl back in your hole and read another do it yourself book so you can buy another 10 tool from harbor freight in the morning!!:tu:

lol. You mad, bro? You "clowned" me in other topics? Interesting, because you're not even on my radar. You amount to less than a butt pimple to me.

Maybe you should call Chrysler, Carl H. Munroe's publishers, all of the Dodge dealerships and every ASE mechanic who's ever pulled a 727 pump, because apparently we're all doing it wrong. I'm sure they'd pay you good money to amend page 21-207 of the Dodge Diesel Truck Service manual to reflect your genius idea of using a pry bar on their transmissions. What's next, pressing ball joints with a J clamp? HA!

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Ok, for y'all that may not have had the opportunity to rebuild your own transmissions yet but might want to tackle that in the future and have a hard time sifting through the garbage misinformation that gets posted on internet forums by stupid people, here is the correct way. You won't break thrust washers, bearings, races, seals or anything else, and you definitely won't mar up your transmission case by wedging a pry bar in there like a monkey.

From the Chrysler service manual:
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From "TORQUEFLITE A-727 TRANSMISSION HANDBOOK - How to Rebuild or Modify Chrysler's A-727 Torqueflite For All Applications" (page 87-88; also available electronically through Google Books):
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good boy you read another book.. now go feed your moms 15 cats and have her tuck you in.. obviously you read the books for she shade tree mech. to try and fix there own stuff then when you have messed it up and destroyed the thrust you take it to the shop.. Its shops like mine that have to deal with the mess of lames like you! I am glad you got away from your mom and her 15 cats to learn what a slide hammer is,but when you build 2 trans. a day you know how to complete the jobs without even thinking about it.. Its kinda like the lug wrench they give you when you buy a car,sure it works but the pro uses impact guns and torque wrenches. your a joke!!:moon:LOL

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you sound like the ITT student that just got his ase cert.. they know everything just like you but the guy that's been building these for 30 years complete the job.. LOL

The service manual's a shade tree mechanic book? Dude, you are seriously f***ing DELUSIONAL.

Its there to help lames like you.. you must read your manual on how the change a tire also...LOL:jump:retard

Hey dumba$$ do you not know your on a site for people to learn how to fix stuff there self so they don't have to take there truck to smarta$$ so called shops like yours! So when you try to offend people by calling them a shade tree mechanic then that is what a big portion of the people on here are so maybe you should go to a so called professional site only if you want to be an a$$hole to people!!!!

I don't think anyone reading this thread will let that guy lay a finger on their transmission. Hell, I'd rather stay home and hammer my pecker to a 2x4 than let that dipsh** within a country klick of my truck; it'd be less painful, cheaper and easier to fix.

Hey I understand people try to fix there own stuff.. my point with cat man is there is specialty shops and other ways than a slide hammer!! The slide hammer does damage..
There great at pulling axels on floating rear ends but again it causes damage sometimes.. but hey im just a dumb ass..:c:

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kinda funny I have 6 transmissions lined up that got shipped hear yellow freight... closest one 100 fartest 600mi!! go feed the cats ya lame:tttt:

Winner: the.beard

On another note I sure hope no one reads this and thinks the proper way to remove a pump is with a pry bar from the back. The level of b/s on this site is unreal....It's really frustrating.

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Absolutely unreal. I've got the input shaft, front drum and pump assembly mocked up on the counter right now. I'm about to take some pictures and label the parts, especially the thrust washers and races, to show the guys who want to learn this stuff that you're not going to damage anything when you pull the pump correctly. I'm also going to show how a pry bar or screwdriver can ruin them very quickly and easily. Stand by...

Ya your all winners. some have to get on this site to get advise from someone who knows nothing.. o and there shits always broke.. btw the proper way is with a puller that pulls the pump and pushes in the input, but hey I figure a bar from the back would be better than destroying everything since some are to cheap to buy a tool that costs more than 10 bucks..lol ya got it there judge?? good!!

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your still working on that thing? Damn it should have been back in by now. lol

Ever read the manual?

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We've had our disagreements but that was more on principal. This one is something we can agree on lol. I've got a 47rh apart. I can get some pics of that too.

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when I was 16.. been building these things almost 30 years.. don't need to read them when you build them everyday.. just like they say theres tricks to the trades but some refuse to learn..

Right.... good luck with that.

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I don't need luck there skippy.. you guys are the ones trying to do trans. repairs yourself. mine runs and I build other peoples.. no luck needed there.. just need more hour in a day!!

You go on and enjoy your troll p!ssing match. As for working on other people's stuff, if you really did you would know that all data or one of the other fine information sources is REQUIRED for torque specs and other information needed to properly repair and diagnose moder vehicles. With the number of vehicles on the road today there is no possible way to perform automotive repairs without it. So you go on spouting about your thirty years experience, but just know this 7 year rookie shop owner knows you are absolutely full of it. In fact it's my belief that if you are in fact a technician that your practices are exactly what gives the automotive repair field a bad name. Your right, you might not damage anything but I prefer not to take that chance. I've been working with our transmission builder for about 9 years now and know him well. I can assure you he uses a slide hammer as a pump puller where recommended by the manual. I can also tell you he has the transmission manuals on the shelf. I can finish by saying this, there's no way an experienced automotive technician would bring this dialog to the table...Wana know why? Because they know better!

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Ok, this is why it should be done correctly and you should never use a pry bar or screwdriver to remove the front pump assembly from the transmission.

1: This is the front of the pump as you'd see it while mounted in the transmission (bellhousing side). Notice that only two of the holes are threaded, the one at 9 o'clock and the one at 3 o'clock. This is specifically so the front pump could be pulled with a slide hammer from the outside evenly.
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2: This is the pump assembly as it's mounted to the clutch retainers, or drums, inside the transmission. As it sits in the picture, the bellhousing would be at 12 o'clock and the tail shaft pointing 6 o'clock. As you can see, if the front band (not shown, clamps onto the front drum's nice, big machined surface) is tightened, it's retained in the transmission while the pump is removed. The pump housing, stator (not shown; it's mounted to the back of the pump housing), stator support and pump seal all come out together as one assembly. The drums and input shaft are left behind. It's virtually impossible to damage any bearings or the one thrust washer you'll encounter at this point.
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3: This is the fiber thrust washer in question (the rest of the thrust washers are still inside the transmission, well out of harm's way, at this point). It must spec between .061" and .063" for the correct transmission internal clearance.
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4: this is why you never use a pry bar or screwdriver to remove the pump: Aside from the fact that a pry bar can damage the machined surfaces of the pump and case, you can see that it's very easy to completely wreck the thrust washer by wedging something between the front drum and the pump where it sits.
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I build engines and transmission not the whole car knuckle head. The only thing you need on testing shift sol. and temp. switches is a multi meter.on the newer trans. other than that the mech. function is relatively the same.. newer transmissions norm. run looser clutch pack tolerances than the older ones. your correct I don't know nothing on the modern car computer systems and don't want to know.. hell I cant post pics. on my computer!! LOL I would bet cat man would just throw the new thrust washers in the trans and not check endplay on the front or rear shafts.. common mistake made everyday. but yet again he prob. wont change them because he will have to buy another 10 tool...:c:

This kid is a troll. Can someone ban him?

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exactly!!! you wouldn't do it there retard....fail!!! Go feed the cat!!!

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why you mad?? oh ya i was not going to know any of that... gotcha!!!lol kid??? o wow i wish!!

Rofl!!!! Right because you post actually contains knowledge??? Yea...There again. Might convince a newbie of that but I'm not falling for your crap pal. And no I'm not the least bit mad. However I know your just a troll. Maybe you should research troll? You might understand why I recommend that you be banned? If you think I'm going to let some forum troll under my skin you must be pretty stoopid lol :D And btw tell me again how you check temp and pressure sensors without alldata? Oh those aren't on older transmissions...except for the ones built in the 90s?

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I second that.

I wouldn't do it anywhere. You really are a special brand of stupid, aren't you?

ya don't need to.. if your that dumb than that's on you!! another FAIL lol

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ya what ever you say mr 2 day trans builder..lol

This forum's going to get a real bad reputation real fast with this guy lurking around. Damned shame.

you have only been here 2 months and your coming up with this?? haha what a nerd!!
To bad you didn't have something positive to share on this site and good tech info..

He trolls constantly over on norcal1320. Not one useful post that I saw anyway. Just trying to talk big hoping people will think he knows something. It looks like he's a joke over there too. Poor guy.:o

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This is my first day on here and your allready startin to ruin it. By the way there is a 65 year old man that you would call a shade tree mech.i bet you that guy could work circles around you all day.

lol Ok, now I refuse to believe you're serious. You're joking and just trying to get a rise out of people, right? Like an internet Ashton Kutcher?

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His posts here are worthless, too.

There's a lot of good stuff here if you can weed through the garbage. I don't always agree with everybody (Mystery can testify to that) but 90% of the time there's good info to be shared.

Yea allready talked to a guy about the exhaust on my 7.3. Good to know theres some good people that know a few things. Thanks alot man.

to clarify we agree 100% on that topic but I always tell someone to use what component is currently in use lol



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You should start telling your customers that you threw your slide hammers out and you're now disassembling transmissions with pry bars. The business will roll in, for sure. HA! lol

Lol!!! And tell them I can diagnose and repair all their vehicles without torque specs, wiring diagrams or vehicle specific data!!!! That'll do the trick!

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hmm kinda funny I do a fair amount of work for norcal 1320... funnier that you searched it..haha.. the best is a few of you seem to know what your doing... and yea theres a lot of good stuff on this site and some garbage to I found that with this site a while back.. A lot of there clowns think they know what there doing... you have that trans done there yet cat man??? going on three days!!!lol

Even Google Translator drew a blank on that doosie. Are you drunk, Patricia?

no I wish I was. you buying?? ps if you were smart enough to google you guys would see real cars that I have don't and what real cars are all about..