Looking at getting a 1 St gen. problem tho
#11
I never did well restoring... even though that's all I wanted to do to something from the age of 15. Trouble for me is I have no patience for body work, and need to be able to drive my toys asap.
If money hadn't been tight, I would have kept my 95 F350 PSD crewcab and cummins'ed it instead of replacing it with a W250. Really miss the 4 full doors. That PSD treated me okay - minimal problems - although they are expensive to mod. I had a '97 E350 PSD that was a nightmare enginewise Life's too short for complicated diesels.
If money hadn't been tight, I would have kept my 95 F350 PSD crewcab and cummins'ed it instead of replacing it with a W250. Really miss the 4 full doors. That PSD treated me okay - minimal problems - although they are expensive to mod. I had a '97 E350 PSD that was a nightmare enginewise Life's too short for complicated diesels.
#13
would it be possible to just install a lift or leveling kit instead of fixing the front suspension ? What are good brands that sell like 3 or 4 inch kits
#14
It is not hard stuff to work on. Done two of my D250s. I suggest a fullsize floorjack, 6-ton axle stands for height, a c-clamp press for balljoints as the lower arms usually will not unbolt from truck because the bushing through-bolts are seized (although bushing usually okay).
Try not to snap off shock bolts in the lower arms. Lots of lube, and 2 steps forward one step back procedure for loosening seems to help. Or snap them off immediately and use a small pipe wrench from the other side.
Make sure any parts you buy are for the 4000# front end. All cummins D250s have this (even though your door jamb tag probably says 3800#) All the balljoints and TREs are bigger. Coils and shocks are longer. Rockauto has everything for decent prices. I bought the springs local because they were $$$ to ship due to size/weight.
I've seem upper arms badly rusted, and/or cracked. I'm pretty sure they are the same on the light and heavy front ends except for the balljoint. I welded a piece of rebar into one of mine because it was rusted thin and cracked. Seen a buddy of mine collapse his on a bad bounce due to being thin from rust (only a gas truck too).
Last edited by u2slow; 02-05-2014 at 11:26 AM.
#15
#16
I changed an idler arm in 30 mins one day.
Installed one spring, shock, and a upper control arm bushing in 2-3 hours another day.
A few days later, did the coil and shock on the other side in about an hour.
All on my back in the driveway. Not a big deal. Rome wasn't built in a day.
#17
How do you figure? First, spend an hour one day figuring out what parts are shot. Pump some grease into the joints... that usually gives you a better clue.
I changed an idler arm in 30 mins one day.
Installed one spring, shock, and a upper control arm bushing in 2-3 hours another day.
A few days later, did the coil and shock on the other side in about an hour.
All on my back in the driveway. Not a big deal. Rome wasn't built in a day.
I changed an idler arm in 30 mins one day.
Installed one spring, shock, and a upper control arm bushing in 2-3 hours another day.
A few days later, did the coil and shock on the other side in about an hour.
All on my back in the driveway. Not a big deal. Rome wasn't built in a day.
#18
You probably wont just find a video for it.... but when it comes down to it its all just nuts and bolts.... a shop would charge an outrageous price no matter what and im sure they wouldnt do it as fast as you would like. If you want to learn baisic mecanics, get a 1st gen and work on it yourself
#19
You probably wont just find a video for it.... but when it comes down to it its all just nuts and bolts.... a shop would charge an outrageous price no matter what and im sure they wouldnt do it as fast as you would like. If you want to learn baisic mecanics, get a 1st gen and work on it yourself
#20
Well I look forward to seeing the blue beauty.... whenever you have problems just post some pictures of your front end and I'm sure we can all help
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