1st Generation Dodge Cummins 89-93 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with Rotary Injection Pumps

correct way to body lift

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Old 04-23-2013, 09:40 AM
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Default correct way to body lift

I have noticed that there are no correct write ups for how to install a body lift properly.
This is how I install one.
First buy a good lift kit,(from a manufacture who sells and warrants the product) at the same time look a your cab bushings, if they even look like they might hold up another year or two REPLACE THEM!
LOOSEN THE STERRING COLUMN SLEEVE
When installing I use a lift, but you can use a good HEAVY DUTY jack, also have jack stands, loosen all bolts and place jack under the body (pinch weld) place jack stands under the body as well and lower jack so that you can take your jack over to the other side, I would do this, so that you don’t twist anything.
Start on the side where you have the jack, not the jack stands lift the body enough to remove the old bushings and install new bushings and install the correct lift spacers on top of the body bushing, use the bolts that are supplied with the kit, do not start to tighten the nut all the way, just screw it on a little, lower the jack and go to the other side and repeat, once you have all the NEW BUSHINGS and spacers installed, there is a tube of red liquid with the kit, it is thread locker (very important to use this)
Put the thread locker all over the threads, don’t worry if you run out, your local hardware store has plenty of it (don’t be cheap, just buy another tube) then start to tighten the nuts slowly and evenly all round the cab, I have never seen any torque specs for this, so I tighten in till I can no longer tighten.
On my truck I have a stick shift and I had to notch the floor out a little and the spacer for the boot had to be cut as well, for some reason they don’t make an aftermarket spacer for these, so you have to do a little cutting
Now you can do the bed, same way but there are no bushings to take out or install, also want to point out that the bolts on my bed were not install from the bed down, they are installed from the bottom up, meaning the nut is welded to the bed and you screw in the bolt, if you break a bolt you will have to cut the bed (where the nut is located and grind old nut out and re-weld another in its, I also take another step to weld a washer along with the nut to the bed.
Retighten the steering column
The instructions say tighten after 500 miles or something like that, I checked mine and tell anyone that I do one for every weekend for a month, then I also tell them to check them every time you climb under to grease up everything, (typically every 3,000 miles)
If these kits are installed correctly and are maintained, you will have a cheap lift for your truck and be able to enjoy for many years, if you decide to use some other method, all I can say is good luck
PLEASE DON’T USE WOOD OR HOCKY PUCKS TO RAISE YOUR TRUCK, THESE KITS ARE SO CHEAP, and replace the body bushings, even if it does not look like you need them, it is better to be safe than sorry
I also want to talk about the cab, when you are taking the old bolts out, pay attention t the cab, where they rest, do not install a kit if you have rust or any kind of defects to the sub floor, have it fixed or replaced, the reason why you see the nasty accidents with the cabs coming off the truck is due to a poor installation and the cab itself is failing around the mounts.

the truck that I have demonstrated this to is a 93 dodge dually d350
 
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