I just bought a 91.5 w250 cummins and it is runninf 33" tires, they hit so bad that they have actually bowed my fenders out and i am looking to find about a 4" lift kit, i would like to not spend much more than about $500 and i am willing to settle for a 2", but through all my searching i can find no such thing all i have found is lift kits that specifically say "not compatible with trucks with cummins diesel engine" will these kits still work and if not where do i find one for my truck???? help!

 

No, the gas lift kits will sag after a while with the weight of the Cummins.
The only lift that I could fiond for the Cummins was from Skyjacker.
Your other option is to have one custom made- Alcan, and others, will make them for the Cummins.
I spent a little more than $500 for my lift last October.

 

Put a body lift on for a little clearence, then raise your suspension alittle too. If your running front coil springs Energy suspension has these spring isolators that go above and below your coil springs, then put in some Moog 7446's, don't know if thats the right # right off the top of my head, but they are the Moog Super Duty springs for the Cummins powered trucks. They'll raise your front end a couple of inches over stock. Then, raise your body with a Energy suspension kit. Springs are about $150 for the pair thru O'Reillys, $100 for the spring isolators above and below, and the Body lift will be about $275....

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Sorry, I just realized W250....no problem, get a set of 2" blocks under your leafs, raise it, then have your front springs re-arched, then do a body raise. The nice thing about a little here and a little there, you usually won't have to get into any crazy offset steering arms and such doing it like this. Go over to 4x4 Trucking and read up on cummins trucks....

 

Don't waste you money and time following screaming metal boy's advice.

1) Maintaining the steering geometry requires a drop pitman for even a 2" minimal lift. Crossover steering is advisable for 4" or more to work acceptably. I run 34" tires with 3". YMMV. Skyjacker has the Springs and pitman. Alcan or similar is better, but more costly. Go with 6" springs in back and ditch the blocks. Blocks are NEVER a good idea, except for minor adjustments. Body lifts are not too smart either, but whatever blows your skirt up.

2) Larger than stock tires will steer and handle better with the addition of a steering stabilizer. You can get by without it, but probably won't like it. While you're at it, don't forget to brace the steering box. Bigger tires will rip it loose pretty quick.

3) You will also need a longer front drive shaft. People like the aforementioned metal one will claim you don't "need" it. You don't actually, at least until the front end gets traction under load. Your call.

 

I just installed a set of 2" front leveling springs in my truck. I bought them from Auto Parts Warehouse | Car Parts & Accessories, Truck Parts, Discount Auto Body Parts Online part #D200CS. D-Dodge 200-2.00" lift C-Cummins S-Softride. It leveled the truck nicely. It did require longer shocks to account for the height difference. The springs with optional separate polyurethane bushings were $400 and the shocks about $50 each from JEGS Performance Auto Parts - Holley - Billet Specialties - Edelbrock - MSD - Moroso - Mr Gasket. All of the steering bolted right back up, nothing binds. I had to recenter the steering wheels, and align the front end. Surprisingly the springs ride great! 33x12.50's clear great, 35's would probably clear fine front and back. My driveshaft was fine, it had plenty of slip to account for the lift. I can't say if the same would be true for a 4" lift front and back.

 

Yes, I forgot about the shocks, definitely need longer shocks. I compensated for an additional 1" lift (total 3") by modifying and beefing up the upper mounts. They don't make a shock for 3":

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...cs/CTD_191.jpg

The upper shock mounts are a known weak point on trucks that see hard offroad duty.
You might not notice it, but your drag link geometry is off a bit now and will induce minor to moderate bump steer and accelerate joint wear. You will be surprised the difference a drop pitman makes in this regard. An adjustable drag link makes a nice band-aid, but drop pitman is the correct/best solution.