Ive noticed slop in the drivetrain when i shift. Just replaced u-joints (thought this was the problem) while removing the driveshaft I noticed some rotation play in the tcase yoke and diff yoke (about 1/2-3/4" from one side to the other). The tcase was rebuilt one year before I got the truck. My question is, is this in any way normal and if not what are my options? I changed rear wheel bearings and seals about 6 months ago and of course changed fluid as well with synthetic oil. Thanks for any help!

 

Not normal. I rebuilt my diff before. It's not that bad of a job, just expensive. Most people say to remove the sway bar, but I think it makes a nice shelf for when the carrier tries to fall out on you. I don't know if the 92s came with sway bars, but I'm thinking not.

You are checking it with the truck in gear and your clutch is good right? You are sure the transfer case was rebuilt or that is what the guy said who sold you the truck? I'd disconnect the driveshaft to make sure they both have play. The t-case I just got has zero play. I've never rebuilt one, but they appear to be like a transmission. Make sure you have a good set of snap and lock ring pliers and you should be fine.

 

I had the drive shaft out when I was messing with the yokes and yes it was in gear. IMO I need a new clutch soon but I don't know that it's bad, I just don't like the feel of it. As far as the tcase being rebuilt or not I can't prove it and neither could he so I guess you could say it wasn't and you would probably be right haha. Anyone know how hard it is to rebuild a tcase and about how much it would cost. And how expensive was rebuilding your diff hydroshock? If I'm going to rebuild anything I want to make it stronger if possible so if anyone could explain what I'd need to do that I'd appreciate it!

 

T-case is ~$200 on ebay. The diff was around $400, but that was going to auto parts cause it really needed it. You might get away cheaper on ebay. Making it stronger; you'd be better off upgrading. I was reading and decided to go with an NP241 instead of the 205 because the gears tend to walk out and crack the case when you start putting power to it. You can even get a 271/273 for about the same here: Transfer Case Express, Inc. · New, rebuilt transfer cases ( transfercase ). Lowest prices. In California, world-wide delivery. You just have to clock it because the drop is different. People have different opinions on whether or not that is a good idea. Personally; I don't see anything wrong with it.

I haven't seen anything for making the rear end stronger save for a locker.

 

I've always been scared of buying on eBay, don't know why. So the diff rebuild cost you 400$? Other than clocking the np241 was there any mods you had to do to make it work? I'm not afraid of rebuilding either, I just haven't ever done it before. But if its not that much cheaper than just replacing I'll just do that. How much would a locker run me and where is the best place to get one? I feel a bit dumb asking so many questions

 

Don't feel dumb. Other people will read it later and have the info. I actually haven't completed it yet. Still have to find a front axle, but from what I read that is all you have to do. You have to make sure to change the vent on the T-case though. I think that is going to be the most difficult part.

It was around $400. I'm not sure exactly because I went around to just about every auto parts in town to collect everything. I want to say each bearing was $70+ so add races, seals and fluids.

I dealt with EMS offroad for my hub conversion. Great guys to deal with and I'm sure they could help you out with a locker. You just need to tell them your gear ratio as the lockers are made with different gear ranges. Mine came with the axle and I think its a trutrac. I think they are $6-800. I don't know if I'd bother with a 4x4, but I only got stuck once with my 2wd and the locker.

 

Well I try not to ask questions unless I can't find the answers on my own. Thanks for your help!

 

No problem. Good luck and keep us posted.