Rear end question
#1
#2
I have the stock power-lock in my '93... its good.
I put a Lockright in my '90... its better.
(cheap and easy to install in open diff case)
There should be a metal tag on one of the diff bolts. It will have a number like 605512-1 or something. Look it up here: http://www2.dana.com/pdf/X510-9.pdf
I put a Lockright in my '90... its better.
(cheap and easy to install in open diff case)
There should be a metal tag on one of the diff bolts. It will have a number like 605512-1 or something. Look it up here: http://www2.dana.com/pdf/X510-9.pdf
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shovelhead87 (01-14-2013)
#3
May be worn out rearend. I always thought I had limited slip, and several years ago the day I was getting new tires I did a burnout. I roasted them so good that I left 2 holes on each side of the truck from the duals in the black top. The right side was far deeper than the left so I thought the rear had limited due to what the holes in the blacktop proved. I no longer can get both side to spin like that, so I assume the limited slip is worn out after 297,000 miles.
#5
my truck only has 186000 on it but it lived a hard life always hauling a s*it ton of fuel, tools and a crane. so which is the best way to go about this rebuild. i will not very often pull anything but my car on a 20ft trailer
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thank you for the link to the grenaded view
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I have the stock power-lock in my '93... its good.
I put a Lockright in my '90... its better.
(cheap and easy to install in open diff case)
There should be a metal tag on one of the diff bolts. It will have a number like 605512-1 or something. Look it up here: http://www2.dana.com/pdf/X510-9.pdf
I put a Lockright in my '90... its better.
(cheap and easy to install in open diff case)
There should be a metal tag on one of the diff bolts. It will have a number like 605512-1 or something. Look it up here: http://www2.dana.com/pdf/X510-9.pdf
Last edited by shovelhead87; 01-14-2013 at 12:48 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#6
If you can find one, swap out the whole rear, throw it up on your workbench, go thru it. Pick up a rear for about $100, then $160-280 for bearings, seals, new wheel cylinders, shoes, gaskets, couple of cans of paint, swap it out.
Then, throw your other one up on the bench and rebuild it as time allows, and wrap it up. Chances are you'll need it again after another 100,000 miles
Every once-in-a-while....I'll hammer on mine with a big hellacious burnout....the next day I'm paranoid, thinking I've hurt it.
I'm pulling the cover off, dial indicators, blueing, setting it up agian, and changing the fluid.
If you can find one thats in good shape, its tight (probably been rebuilt), the lube in clean and the studs are good....chances are its a good rear. Just throw on some shoes if needed, look it over good and throw it in your truck.
Alot of places now require you to bring in a core to exchange....
Me myself, I'd yank it apart and go thru it with new bearings and seal while your doing the work.
Then, throw your other one up on the bench and rebuild it as time allows, and wrap it up. Chances are you'll need it again after another 100,000 miles
Every once-in-a-while....I'll hammer on mine with a big hellacious burnout....the next day I'm paranoid, thinking I've hurt it.
I'm pulling the cover off, dial indicators, blueing, setting it up agian, and changing the fluid.
If you can find one thats in good shape, its tight (probably been rebuilt), the lube in clean and the studs are good....chances are its a good rear. Just throw on some shoes if needed, look it over good and throw it in your truck.
Alot of places now require you to bring in a core to exchange....
Me myself, I'd yank it apart and go thru it with new bearings and seal while your doing the work.
Last edited by Screamin' Metal; 01-14-2013 at 03:50 PM.
#7
Prepare to do a full gear setup if you have shot bearings. The housing and gears may be worn, and you won't necessarily have a good pattern and/or proper pre-load just by blindly changing bearings. (My D70 had no carrier bearing preload when I tried this - I think my housing must be worn).
#8
If you can find one, swap out the whole rear, throw it up on your workbench, go thru it. Pick up a rear for about $100, then $160-280 for bearings, seals, new wheel cylinders, shoes, gaskets, couple of cans of paint, swap it out.
Then, throw your other one up on the bench and rebuild it as time allows, and wrap it up. Chances are you'll need it again after another 100,000 miles
Every once-in-a-while....I'll hammer on mine with a big hellacious burnout....the next day I'm paranoid, thinking I've hurt it.
I'm pulling the cover off, dial indicators, blueing, setting it up agian, and changing the fluid.
If you can find one thats in good shape, its tight (probably been rebuilt), the lube in clean and the studs are good....chances are its a good rear. Just throw on some shoes if needed, look it over good and throw it in your truck.
Alot of places now require you to bring in a core to exchange....
Me myself, I'd yank it apart and go thru it with new bearings and seal while your doing the work.
Then, throw your other one up on the bench and rebuild it as time allows, and wrap it up. Chances are you'll need it again after another 100,000 miles
Every once-in-a-while....I'll hammer on mine with a big hellacious burnout....the next day I'm paranoid, thinking I've hurt it.
I'm pulling the cover off, dial indicators, blueing, setting it up agian, and changing the fluid.
If you can find one thats in good shape, its tight (probably been rebuilt), the lube in clean and the studs are good....chances are its a good rear. Just throw on some shoes if needed, look it over good and throw it in your truck.
Alot of places now require you to bring in a core to exchange....
Me myself, I'd yank it apart and go thru it with new bearings and seal while your doing the work.
I have been told by a couple of guys every 100k that the axel would go out.
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on my dually from tire to tire i am measuring 87in from side wall to side wall. is this right or is this a different axle
Last edited by shovelhead87; 01-18-2013 at 10:23 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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