12 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 94-98 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with P7100 Injection Pumps

Building a 2001 12 Valve

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  #31  
Old 08-21-2012, 04:45 PM
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Subscribed... this is a great thread as i'm swapping my stuff into a 360 gasser aswell...

mine is a 1500 though but from what i've read... the 1500 ex.cab, short box frame... is the same as a 1998 2500 ex.cab, short box frame...

So we're kind of doing the exact same thing, whereas my swap differs as i will be swapping axles, suspension and EVERYTHING...
 
  #32  
Old 08-21-2012, 10:43 PM
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Haha man good luck!
I want to do a 1500 RCSB swap in a year or two, make it a drag truck. Here in Indy there are SOOO many little 4 cylinders running around, and I know that this truck should outrun them, but having a diesel RCSB would be awesome. And I'll say this, if you're not going to get a manual, then I'd try to go with a mechanical transmission (47RH) over the electrical (47RE). We have the RE and that's where our transmission problem is coming from. I guess it just all depends on what your setup is, though. What year truck/motor are you swapping?

And as for everything else today, we actually bumped the starter a couple times! Oh man, that was a rush
Tomorrow my Dad is trying to get tranny-cooler lines so that we can fill up the transmission and hopefully pull her out of the barn
Then it's a test to see if the surgery we performed on the harness is worth anything. We might have to test three PCMs to see if it did us any good. We have a 98 Cummins manual PCM, a 2001 V8 automatic, and one of our friends has a 96 diesel automatic one that he said he'd be willing to swap for our 98 manual one. So I guess we just have to play around with it for awhile. If not, then I think I'm going to invest in the PCS transmission shifter, in which case it could be next week (unless we pay for rush delivery) before we have it rolling down the road.
One last question: now that power is hooked up and everything, the "Brights" light in the instrument cluster is constantly on, even with the key off. Now, with the headlights off, if I flash the brights switch then it turns off while the brights are on, so basically it's reversed. Any quick suggestions?
Gracias all, and hopefully I'll have a video tomorrow of her purrin like a kitten!
 
  #33  
Old 08-22-2012, 06:21 AM
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My Cummins truck is made in 1995 but designated as a 1996 model year... My gasser is made in 1994 but designated as a 1995 model year...

I will be swapping in my motor and my manual transmission, i will also swap axles to get my D80 in the rear and D60 up front..

I will also swap the rear leaf springs and front coil springs, and the shocks aswell...

I think i will go with swapping the whole interior on the truck with the instrument cluster and dash since the Cummins has Infinity Audio, wich i love... and the gasser has had cutouts for some pioneer speakers and a pioneer head unit... and it sounds like ****!

But i'm looking forward to see more in this thread, keep us posted
 
  #34  
Old 08-22-2012, 06:59 AM
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Hopefully that will be easier than mine. Going from an electronic dash setup (2001) to the mechanical motor and mechanical dash (95 motor 98 engine harness and also 98 dash) is kind of confusing. We have all sorts of diagrams to try to know what the heck we are doing, and even then stuff doesn't always work out too well (hence my brights notification constantly being on). However, I bet staying in the 12 valve generation will be MUCH easier than the way I did it.
More photos and info tonight!
 
  #35  
Old 08-24-2012, 12:22 AM
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Well, some somewhat sad news. We got everything back together to make it start, but it won't. I think the problem is the fuel shutoff solenoid. It won't move at all, so we aren't getting any fuel through the pump. I don't know if I'll work on it today or not, but I have a couple theories as to why this is, and a few solutions on fixing it.
My first theory is that the solenoid is bad, which is very unlikely.
My second theory is that there is a wire that is unhooked (and I know for a fact it is), but I don't know where it goes, maybe it helps control the solenoid. On the harness, there is a branch of wires on the driver side that goes out to two little round cylinders, which are connected to each other, and also go to the battery. There is a red wire that is unhooked, and I don't know where it goes. Last time I checked my buddy's truck, he didn't even have that wire, so I figured it would be ok. Now maybe that wire not being connected is my culprit? Not sure, I guess I'll find out tomorrow.
My third theory is that, since I'm using a 2001 V8 fusebox with a 98 engine harness, the connector on the box that the harness plugs into doesn't have all the pins necessary to make the harness work, and one of those pins that is missing runs to the solenoid.

I believe that those are the only theories I have at this moment. So solutions:
1. Run a hot wire through the solenoid to make sure that it works. If it does, then I'll proceed through the rest of these steps.
2. Check that wire down by the two cylinders, and make sure all of that crap is hooked up properly.
3. If fixing those wires doesn't help, then I'm just going to hardwire the solenoid like I've heard a lot of other people doing. It might be a little more challenging, but I know it will work.

Unfortunately that's all I have for today. Hopefully this solenoid won't be too much of an issue and I can move on to finding out if my transmission is going to shift.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Uh, well, you see, my dad had some time today to work on the truck while I was at college. And, I decided to call him after my Algebra class. And when he called me back, all I heard was this staticky noise, and I know my dad has a crappy phone, so I thought it was just acting up on him or something. And I kept saying, "What's up? What are you doing?" etc etc. Then I heard him say back, "What do you think, can you hear it?" And I was all like, "hear what, all I can hear is crap...." and then it hit me. Something was running in the background, and it sure as heck wasn't my dad's truck... or a drill... or an air compressor... or a Bobcat... but it was something that has two more cylinders than a Bobcat and is a whole lot more fun. MY FREAKING TRUCK!
But there are still some complications. The solenoid is in fact bad, and he kept saying something about the fuel pump not working correctly. I'm still not entirely sure what he was saying, I had a bunch of girls walk into the apartment half way through the conversation, and then he had a phone call, so we shall talk more on it tomorrow. BUT, I know for a fact that the shut off solenoid is bad, there is a bad relay of some sort, there is a small oil leak that we PRAY is not from the rear main (the rear main seal is a b**h to replace, m'kay?) and my dad accidentally put the giant retaining nut on wrong, the one for the sending unit on the fuel tank, so we have to drop the tank again and fix it. Or pull the bed off... I would rather pull the bed off than drop a tank with 10 gallons of fuel. That thing was hard enough to put in empty!
Now, after all of that, I'm super glad that my truck actually started up, and I get to hear it for myself tomorrow and I'm SUPER excited
And then, kind of to top it off, we are going to the Scheid Diesel show tomorrow night to watch the tractor pulls and see if we can't get some free swag and good deals on parts we may need or at least want.
Until tomorrow!
 

Last edited by jeffsqartan; 08-24-2012 at 12:22 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #36  
Old 08-24-2012, 09:01 AM
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  #37  
Old 08-25-2012, 02:34 AM
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IT LIVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVESSSSSSSS!!!!!!
After running around for an hour and a half, I got home and we started up the truck, and I'm so pumped to get this thing rolling!
In the video below, you can hear it start, and see just a little bit of smoke towards the end of the video. However, as you can also hear, it's idling about 400 rpms too high. The tach reads at 1400? In between 12-1400, and I know that's way too high. Any suggestions on how to lower it? And what's the normal idle speed?
It turns out that we had to get a fuel-shutdown solenoid. Which was crazy expensive.... And something is jacked up with our fuel tank. We took the bed off, and the top of the tank is covered in diesel. We are going to try to find some kind of solution tomorrow at the Scheid Diesel Extravaganza. And watch a couple truck pulls

http://s300.photobucket.com/albums/nn24/jeffsqartan/?action=view&current=Truck-iPad.mp4
 
  #38  
Old 08-26-2012, 10:27 PM
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Well, I think we have our fuel and oil leaks fixed.
Fuel leak- while at Scheid (which was the BEST diesel show I have EVER been to!!!) we bought a tank straw from FASS (almost bought an entire FASS system, but oh well) and we hooked it up this afternoon and we will run the lines tomorrow and see what happens.
Oil leak- there was a small leak towards the rear of the oil pan, and we thought it might be the whole gasket, so we were going to take a bunch of bolts out and pry it open just enough to slip some RTV in, but then I remembered something: some of the bolts had orange RTV on them, and we had never put RTV on any of our bolts when we put them back in. After consulting with our mechanic, we decided that this could be our problem. I RTVed the rear bolts and put them back in. This one still might elude us, but we won't be able to find out until we fill the motor back up with oil and start it again.
I went to Young and Sons and picked up a new shutoff solenoid for $225 And then got on Geno's Garage, and it was only $110
So I ordered it and I also ordered a 98 and 95 Dodge CD service manual from Geno's, along with the relay for the shutoff solenoid. All together? $210 and Dodge wanted $84 for the relay, and who knows how much for BOTH service manuals! What a deal!
Unfortunately, our PCM struggle keeps on. I called a company I have heard good things about (based in Florida). They need a VIN number, so I wanted to ask how I would go about doing that, since I don't have a truck with the right VIN that I could use. I got to the part about it having three different year parts on it, and the guy just started saying there was nothing he had in the store that could possibly help me Well, I know that's a load of bull, so I kept going, telling him I knew what I needed, and I just had a question, but all he would do is say he couldn't help me. I finally got him to give me the name of this other guy that he said would be around tomorrow, so I'm going to call back and see if I can't get this guy to help me out. You know, it's just really depressing when a company won't even listen to its customer, even when the customer is clearly more experienced than the salesman. (disclaimer- yes, I know I don't know EVERYTHING about these trucks, but from what this guy was saying, I could tell I knew more about it than he did).

Well that's about all, but I do have a couple photos. Some from Scheid, and a couple with our new tank setup.

The FASS straw set in our tank, hose comes tomorrow.
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I believe I've seen this guy on one of the dieselbombers threads for stacks? Can't quite remember. But he's updated his truck a little. Kind of cool to see it in person though.
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ALSO, I saw this little gem a week or so ago, and it was amazing to see in person!
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Some truck pullin


And a little more.
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So in the past I've never really cared for truck pulls, but last night had some great runs. It was a great show and I will definitely be attending next year!
More updates on what the truck does tomorrow!
 
  #39  
Old 08-26-2012, 11:21 PM
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Thats a pretty engine
 
  #40  
Old 08-26-2012, 11:25 PM
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Wow great job!!!!!!!! That is some quality work there!!! Keep it up! The only thing I never heard about when doing the rebuild was if you tabbed the KDP. Hope that did not get over looked but as good of work as you do I'm sure it got done
 


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