I bought a 95 2wd back around Chritmas. Pretty rough, been working on it here and there got it all cleaned up new exhaust new paint. Looks pretty good now. I drove about 100 miles ther other day when I stopped it felt like it was missing at idle but would smooth out once driving. Changed injectors today. DDP stage 2's. Now at about 1200 rpm it shook really bad but would smooth out as rpm go up.
Let me back up a little, it had always sounded like a slight miss a idle. I checked the fuel pressure, 22 lbs at idel and 40 reavied up. I started cracking the injectors lines one at a time got to #4 and no difference when line was cracked. So could the pump be weak at lower pressure on that cylinder? If so could turning the barrel on that hole make it up? Any help would be great.

Now when starting it cranks more than before. I can give it a little throttle and it bust right off. Tommorow I will raise idle a bit.

 

Fuel checked for air? Fuel quality checked? Fuel strainer replaced? What's your current timing?
Turning the barrels should only be done in the pump shop in my opinion. It can make tuning a mess and it can effect timing. Do you have a ir thermometer?
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I was checking the temp on each port and all where within 10 to 15 degrees at idel only a couple was at the higher temp all the other where 5 or so and #4 was not one of the high ones. As for timing not sure.

 

Are you getting smoke with the misfire? Was the pressure checked under load or was the misfire recreated when checking pressure?

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Really not a misfire. No smoke. The truck halls for only 100 plate and exhaust, it seems to have more with the new injectors. Just at idel up to above 1200 is where its not smooth.

 

You say cracking #4 at idle with the old injectors and these new ones both have no pitch change, correct?

Seeing as how you even know about turning the barrels, I am guessing you probably did it at one time on this thing. To see if I am right, crack that injector line prettty loosely and see if it begins to shoot fuel when you rev it past 1200RPM. This would mean #4 was turned too far counterclockwise and the spill port isn't getting closed off like all the rest. As you get into it more, the spill port is eventually closed off and then you don't really notice it. If it were me, I would etch a FINE line on the barrel assembly and the pump so you know exactly where it was aligned at before. Then loosen those 2 nuts and go over 1 fine line's worth. It takes VERY little to make a difference so you should only be rotating it like 1/100". The best way is to keep the nuts just snug and tapping the side with a hammer. There is a shim under each ear of the barrel assembly right next to the bolts, make damn sure one of them doesn't fall out on you or you will put the barrel in there at an angle and screw everything up. Do this as a trial and error, adjusting only when the truck is off.

 

Ill second that! I still feel its a much better practice to have it tuned on a bench, and eliminating any guessing. I guess if its marked its not a problem to turn it back.

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I didn't try it with the old injectors, with the new ones it was more noticeable that is when I started trying to find out which hole it was.
You are saying that fuel will not shoot out as rpm go up. I did notice a couple cylinder would really shot fuel when I was cracking the lines loose but that was at idel. Can't really remember which one.
No I haven't turned any of the barrels but someone might have but don't think so cause factory paint is not distrubed.

 

Oh it's definitely better on a bench. You cannot get all 6 to flow identically by just sound and a hammer, but it is better than nothing in this instance. From idle to full rack travel is only 1/4" or so rotation. That means you have 1/4" to rotate around from idle speed to full fuel. If it takes 5HP to turn 700RPM and full fuel potential is 300 (turned up we will say), that means every 1HP is 0.0008". That tells you why I spent an hour doing the same thing with a hammer tapping it until it sounded absolutely perfect.

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You need to crack all the injectors equally. A cracked injector will actually still pop, barely. You have to loosen the nut until it spins freely. It will shoot fuel everywhere at idle with it loose. I am saying you should loosen each one freely, listening for the one that makes no difference. You said #4 didn't even have fuel coming out of it. If the pump was untouched though I am wondering if you just didn't unscrew it enough. It wouldn't be good to mess with a pump that is bench tested.. I would make sure and double check that each is getting the same amount of fuel spraying out (relatively) before I messed with the barrel. If they are all the same amount but one doesn't change pitch, then the injector is screwy. You can take the injector apart and clean it to see if it fixes it.

 

If it is an injecter I should be able to switch say 1 and 4. if its the injector the problem should follow it.

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Today I scribed a line against the #4 injecter and moved it clockwise about .020 to .030" and adjusted idel up about 100 rpm. Much better I can still feel a little but for now it will be good.
Thnaks for the tips and sugestions.