Ive been proven wrong many times and have admitted being wrong when proven, I don't claim to know it all or have done it all. like I said before I post up what I have had great results with. This is something I have had good results with if someone tries it or cant figure out the right arrangement of parts to make it work what are they out? a little time thats all very easy to hook the normal signal line back up.

If you do run into me at a big event I'll gladly show you in person what I'm doing and you can use your physics to tell me why it won't work.

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if you do try it, it all depends on what you use for a boost elbow ... I don't use the normal $15 piece that I know everyone thinks I was talking about

 

Never said wouldn't work just that it would not complete the same task as the fuel plate. If you use a spring and ball style elbow or a in cab regulator it wouldn't be nearly as erratic. But regardless it's still not the correct way to setup a pump.

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I see both opinions having merit, no a fuel plates function to control fuel AFTER initial boost can't be replaced solely by an afr, however, the afr could in theory be tuned to control fueling through boost input, total travel and rate of travel versus boost input and profile of the foot itself. I think it would take an insane amount of tuning on each individual engine to produce the same consistent results, because you would be using the moving foot of the afr as the fueling guide. However, I can definitely see the advantages of the fueling being only boost controlled in short, hard pulls and should be ok with smart drivers only, unless you limited the travel of the afc foot to stop about where a 100 plate would be. I guess I can see both as being viable methods, even though the plate is a much easier bolt on method, I could definitely see myself trying to tune-limit-modify my afc to eliminate the need for a fuel plate, not replacing the functions of the fuel plate.

 

ok, my first diesel was an 06 common rail cummins, so, i dont know much about the 94 i just bought, im confused about where the afc screw is, i went to turn up the pump yesterday and had no freakin clue what i was looking at, if anyone could help me with this id sure appreciate it... thanks maybe some pictures would be nice too

 

take out Fuel plate, AFC rack will sooner or latter get stuck!

 

Their not $30 anymore their like $90

 

Hey mysterync, can I get your opinion on which fuel plate I should buy/install? The mods I have now;
- aftermaket air horn (my truck is CA model and had EGR, I had to replace entire air horn)
- boost elbow
- cold air intake air filter
- 4" exhaust, turbo back
- pyro/boost/trans temp autometer guages

I am looking to take the next step in power which will not sacrifice fuel mileage nor drive-ability. I was thinking that would be a fuel plate and AFC tune but I don't know which plate would be best??

 

On a stock turbo your better off to run a plate so you don't melt it down. I have a 6 plate w/ timing done and boost elbow and i run 1100 degrees empty getting into it. put a load and it'll burry the pyro.

 

Can someone please spell out some differences between the different fuel plates? Like a #6 is best if you have these mods and plan to tow heavy loads or a #10 is best if you want more low end...ect ect???

My mods right now are;
-4" exhaust,
-boost elbow
-triple gauges (Pyro,boost & trans temp)
-cold air intake,
-aftermarket air horn (only because my truck is Cal. truck and original air horn was so choked off with EGR system, I removed ALL EGR related parts)

I was thinking the next logical mod would be a fuel plate and AFC tune but there are so many different shapes I don't know which one is best for which application???? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

 

OK... I just have to say something now....

Both the AFC and fuel plate LIMIT fuel, the difference between them is that the AFC limits based on boost pressure, while the fuel plate limits based on RPM, neither can do both. I would say that AFC tuning is what will affect fuel economy the most... The fuel plate limits fuel based on RPM, but usually there has to be enough boost that the AFC isn't already limiting it.

Now, the boost elbow... The boost elbow doesn't just restrict the flow, it does control pressure since there is a small hole on the wastegate side of it that bleeds the pressure off... so it results that a percentage of the manifold pressure is seen by the wastegate... if you tighten the boost elbow, you will always have the wastegate see 0 PSI (wastegate will never open), while if you open it completely, the wastegate will always see full manifold pressure (will control to stock boost), now, it's when you have the boost elbow screw open just a little, that you have a percentage of manifold pressure going to the wastegate. If the boost elbow only restricted the flow, when you got on the throttle, the boost would spike, then as the wastegate got more pressure, would regulate to the factory spring setting. the little tiny hole in the side of the wastegate makes it so that it actually does regulate the pressure and not just the flow rate

I think you could tune the pump without the fuel plate, but I don't really see a reason why. The fuel plate is a great tool to limit EGT's... With the stock turbo, you'll probably need to limit it at the top end, while if you run a superB you can probably run a #0 plate that fuels all the way. And the AFC will need to be set differently depending how how fast you want the turbo to spool... if you want it to spool fast, you'll probably be sacrificing economy...

For my own truck, I have the AFC spring set tight, the AFC moved forward most of the way, as well as the plate... If I tromp it from a standstill, it lays coal until it gets 10-15 PSI, but I usually give it half throttle to spool up a bit, then it just hazes.
My buddy does the opposite, he slacks off the AFC spring, and his truck smokes like a SOB.

There you have it, what the different parts do and how they work together.