High idle
#5
Im not sure what means haha. Its able to be reached easiest if drivers side front inner fender is taken out. Then there is a small nut at the bottom of this bolt. Loosen the nut to turn bolt left or right. The top of this bolt is round then goes into a six side so youll need to use an open end side of a 10mm. Turn it one way to increase RPM and other way to decrease idle (shouldent). Forgot which way does what but its a 50/50 so no biggy. Youll need to have the truck off and have someone hold the throttle at WOT to be able to reach the screw completely.
#6
Im not sure what means haha. Its able to be reached easiest if drivers side front inner fender is taken out. Then there is a small nut at the bottom of this bolt. Loosen the nut to turn bolt left or right. The top of this bolt is round then goes into a six side so youll need to use an open end side of a 10mm. Turn it one way to increase RPM and other way to decrease idle (shouldent). Forgot which way does what but its a 50/50 so no biggy. Youll need to have the truck off and have someone hold the throttle at WOT to be able to reach the screw completely.
Sorry it was for the post about rigging up a high idle switch through the cruise control. I figured I would sit back and see how this one plays out.
#7
The bolt is your final idle adjustment, what he's after is a way to control engine rpm on the fly for cold warm up. Bumping the rpm up to 1100 or so wouldn't go well with an automatic transmission, and itd just plain bothersome to me to hear the truck racing constantly.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
#8
#10
Did a bunch of reading on this and nowhere have I found anyone successfully running a high idle set up through the cruise control. Sounds like the best way is to get a PTO style locking throttle cable, rig up a bracket off of the injection pump for the end of the cable conduit and then use something with flex that wont bend/crimp i.e (a couple of small chain links) to the throttle lever/linkage. This way when the throttle is ran under normal operation, the cable will not move in and out. Just have the cable set to having no slack when the linkage is at normal idle postion that way you have idle adjustment at first movement of the cable and allows the most play/movement of the chainlinks at WOT to not bind the cable. Just an idea might try it this weekend to save someone else the headache.
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https://www.dieselbombers.com/C:\Users\Owner\Desktop\switch 1.jpg C:\Users\Owner\Desktop\switch 2.jpg One more idea, I have a pac brake on my truck and there is a micro switch mounted on a braket on the top right of the gear case cover that the throttle lever rests on to activate the exhaust brake when lever is at idle position. Anyways I was wondering if anyone knows where you could pick up a solenoid that would drive a short piston out pushing on the throttle lever.
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https://www.dieselbombers.com/member...3-switch-2.jpg
https://www.dieselbombers.com/member...2-switch-1.jpg
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Hopefully the links work
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
https://www.dieselbombers.com/C:\Users\Owner\Desktop\switch 1.jpg C:\Users\Owner\Desktop\switch 2.jpg One more idea, I have a pac brake on my truck and there is a micro switch mounted on a braket on the top right of the gear case cover that the throttle lever rests on to activate the exhaust brake when lever is at idle position. Anyways I was wondering if anyone knows where you could pick up a solenoid that would drive a short piston out pushing on the throttle lever.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
https://www.dieselbombers.com/member...3-switch-2.jpg
https://www.dieselbombers.com/member...2-switch-1.jpg
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Hopefully the links work
Last edited by ricet07; 01-30-2012 at 11:31 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost