Ok so I just bought this truck and the fuel gauge does not work at all it stays on empty and the light stays on the entire time.....How do i fix this? I have a truck same year model for parts so I can swap whatever parts I need.

 

Most likely the sending unit in the fuel tank.

 

ditto above, with more detail....the float-arm pivot hinge is kind of a cheepie. when the pivot wears, the float has a chance to not only move up and down, but also back and forth. when that happens, the electrical contact between the arm and the variable resistor is broken, resulting in an "empty" reading.

you could probably google up numerous pix of the fix, but, essentially, it's about a 50-cent repair.

drop the tank, remove the sender, bring the sender to a clean place on your workbench.

remove the pivot pin upon which the float arm swings.

replace that with a small-diameter screw that's long enough to accommodate an ink-pen spring, some washers and the nut that keeps it all together. make sure enough thread protrudes from the nut that you can pinch-bite the threads with a pair of pliers (poor-man's loc-tite)

re-install and have a guage that works! Did mine over 10 years ago, and been happy/accurate ever since.

 

thanks i will give it a try.......not trying to be a smart a$$ but i noticed your signature says your speedometer doesn't work

 

yup....totally independent issue. truck originally had automatic, NV241 T-case and whatever configuration of Dana 70-ish thing they were using in early '98.

Now has G-56, a half-n-half hybridized t-case (part original, and part '06), along with a replacement axle that doesn't send "tone" to the dashboard computer. I started a thread further down the page about that issue.

 

that fuel sender thing, mine read E all the time got money saved up and had the tank dropped. its a float arm i think brass. i got it from dodge hope yall sitting down $100

 

A few years back a bunch of us on TDR all solved or pre-empted the problem by passing an unmodified sender to the next guy, who would receive it in the mail, BOMB it, install it, and then mail his old one to the next guy. And so forth. To get the ball rolling, I bit the bullet at the dealership for the new one, which I BOMBed before the R/R.

Your truck must have been owned by some non-Internet guy.

 

Will this bolt and nut trick work on this year of truck 06 chevy K2500 6.6. and what does BOMB mean and send it to the next guy.

 

BOMB is an acronym for Better Off Modified, Baby! And send it to next guy meant that we would share our house addresses to the next guy who said "I want to do mine, too!" and mail the old unit to that "next guy". This was prior to 9/11, so a slight odor of Diesel in a postal facility didn't break the chain. Might not be practical anymore, though. As for it working for your sender, I can only suspect that "maybe". It could even be the model of sender, but no clue. One way to find put would be to have your parts-store guy cross-reference both trucks and see if the part number is the same

 

I have a 1996 12v 2500 2wd auto extracab, I read on here how to fix the fuel gauge problem, also saw someone was having troubles sending diesel soaked parts. If you clean them or let them drain out, you can double seal them in air tight vacuum bags. The machine is 40 bucks at Walmart and the roles are cheap. I use them for motor cycle parts, truck parts, diesel parts ect... Never had a problem and they protect them from further damage. I am also having a problem with power, I think I may need a new turbo the truck has 254k miles and was used for hauling huge biodiesel tanks. I am thinking about a new turbo, and valve spring gov kit, also a new exhaust. I also thought about a new torque converter that is more efficient but with the miles prob best to just replace the trans or put a standard in it. right now I am getting hard shifts and it slips a lil. fluid smells good but is dirty I am thinking of fluid change and filter?

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if I adjust the shifting points too far out on tv cable it seems to delay shift like its slipping.