12V fuel pressure?
#11
04-01-2007, 01:16 AM
No.. I drilled and tapped out the 12v housing. The raised casted in bosses are easy to spot.
It looks like the same housing only the factory drilled and tapped the housings for the VP trucks. If I remember right your 24v is a newer truck like a 01 right? If so your housing is different than the 98.5-99 trucks.
It looks like the same housing only the factory drilled and tapped the housings for the VP trucks. If I remember right your 24v is a newer truck like a 01 right? If so your housing is different than the 98.5-99 trucks.
#12
04-01-2007, 11:50 AM
#13
04-01-2007, 07:22 PM
The only real place is to tap the banjo bolt at the IP.....The tapped banjo bolts that are readily available for the 24V are a different size. Use a 1/8" NPT taper tap. And you will nee a 0-60 psi guage. A 0-40 psi guage would be perfect but no one really makes them.
Heres the pic:
***********************
This is courtesy of Infidel at DTR:
To check fuel pressure on a 12 valve:
I drill and tap the top of the injection pump banjo bolt to 1/8'' pipe
thread, then install a male x female 1/8'' needle valve with 1/8'' tubing
compression fitting in it. Boost gauge or oil pressure tubing pushed
though some 1/4'' tubing to protect against cuts and kinks to the gauge.
For a 12 valve the gauge must be at least 40 psi, 60 psi is best. The gauge can say boost, air, water, fuel or nothing on it, they will all work excellent.
Use no Teflon tape, it doesn't work
with diesel. Instead use anti-seize or Permatex #2. Remember you are
working on the clean side of the filter, keep everything spotless.
Compression fittings with a ferrule that slips over the tubing will leak
if overtightened, finger tight with one half turn of a wrench is plenty.
The ferrule should be replaced if the fitting is ever removed.
If you can tap your manifold for a pyro tapping the banjo bolt is a piece
of cake. Just drill from the inside to keep the hole straight and tap from
the outside. You can also connect to the bleed screw on top of your fuel
filter with the appropriate adapter to tubing if you don't want to tap.
The adaptor is available from TST for $25 they say it is only for temporary use though http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...PROD&ProdID=62 .
After the install start your
engine with the needle valve closed then open it slowly till someone in
the cab signals you that it's just reading pressure. If you tighten down
the packing nut under the valve handle the setting can't move. The valve
will control pulsation and buzzing and can also be shut down in the
unlikely event that you have a leak. Without a valve to restrict the flow
the gauge will pulsate so badly that you won't be able to read it in the
short time before it self destructs.
Parts list; 1/8'' needle valve - $2.50 from the hardware store, plastic
oil pressure tubing kit that comes with the compression fittings - under $10
from any auto parts store. 1/4'' tubing for protective sleeve - less than $2.
Gauge is your choice and may come with tubing. The pressure gauges I
use cost around $10 from here http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.as...keyw ord=NFGA , bringing the total cost to less than $20 and a
couple hours of your time.
From Grainger, needle valve http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pro...835462&ccitem=
************************
Heres the pic:
***********************
This is courtesy of Infidel at DTR:
To check fuel pressure on a 12 valve:
I drill and tap the top of the injection pump banjo bolt to 1/8'' pipe
thread, then install a male x female 1/8'' needle valve with 1/8'' tubing
compression fitting in it. Boost gauge or oil pressure tubing pushed
though some 1/4'' tubing to protect against cuts and kinks to the gauge.
For a 12 valve the gauge must be at least 40 psi, 60 psi is best. The gauge can say boost, air, water, fuel or nothing on it, they will all work excellent.
Use no Teflon tape, it doesn't work
with diesel. Instead use anti-seize or Permatex #2. Remember you are
working on the clean side of the filter, keep everything spotless.
Compression fittings with a ferrule that slips over the tubing will leak
if overtightened, finger tight with one half turn of a wrench is plenty.
The ferrule should be replaced if the fitting is ever removed.
If you can tap your manifold for a pyro tapping the banjo bolt is a piece
of cake. Just drill from the inside to keep the hole straight and tap from
the outside. You can also connect to the bleed screw on top of your fuel
filter with the appropriate adapter to tubing if you don't want to tap.
The adaptor is available from TST for $25 they say it is only for temporary use though http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...PROD&ProdID=62 .
After the install start your
engine with the needle valve closed then open it slowly till someone in
the cab signals you that it's just reading pressure. If you tighten down
the packing nut under the valve handle the setting can't move. The valve
will control pulsation and buzzing and can also be shut down in the
unlikely event that you have a leak. Without a valve to restrict the flow
the gauge will pulsate so badly that you won't be able to read it in the
short time before it self destructs.
Parts list; 1/8'' needle valve - $2.50 from the hardware store, plastic
oil pressure tubing kit that comes with the compression fittings - under $10
from any auto parts store. 1/4'' tubing for protective sleeve - less than $2.
Gauge is your choice and may come with tubing. The pressure gauges I
use cost around $10 from here http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.as...keyw ord=NFGA , bringing the total cost to less than $20 and a
couple hours of your time.
From Grainger, needle valve http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pro...835462&ccitem=
************************
They do make teflon tape that is fuel resistant. It is yellow and can be found at a good hardware store. It's used with gas,fuel and oil. Home depot does not stock it.
#14
04-01-2007, 07:29 PM
BUT...you definitely DO NOT want to use teflon tape in this application. Even the smallest chunk can take out your injector pump or plug the tiny holes in an injector or worse yet, plug a piston cooling port. Using teflon tape can be a very expensive mistake.
The correct stuff to use to seal threads is #2 Permatex or teflon paste (Loctite product called PST)
Last edited by Dr. Evil; 04-01-2007 at 07:32 PM.
#15
04-06-2007, 05:37 PM
I am very aware if that....have used LOTS of in when I worked in the oilpatch.
BUT...you definitely DO NOT want to use teflon tape in this application. Even the smallest chunk can take out your injector pump or plug the tiny holes in an injector or worse yet, plug a piston cooling port. Using teflon tape can be a very expensive mistake.
The correct stuff to use to seal threads is #2 Permatex or teflon paste (Loctite product called PST)
BUT...you definitely DO NOT want to use teflon tape in this application. Even the smallest chunk can take out your injector pump or plug the tiny holes in an injector or worse yet, plug a piston cooling port. Using teflon tape can be a very expensive mistake.
The correct stuff to use to seal threads is #2 Permatex or teflon paste (Loctite product called PST)
#19
04-08-2007, 04:29 PM
I dont think there is a real need for bigger lines. The LP is capable of close to 60 psi so there is more than enough fuel for 600 hp....
BTW, If you want bigger lines...take a look at www.vulcanperformance.com - on the first page, it says they will do custom sets for 12V's
BTW, If you want bigger lines...take a look at www.vulcanperformance.com - on the first page, it says they will do custom sets for 12V's
