I'm wanting to add more guages to my truck and thought I'd throw in a fuel pressure guage so I'd know when the overflow valve goes bad. What pressure is the 12V supposed to be running? Also, where would be a good place to feed a pressure guage off the P7100?

Thanks,
George

 

The only real place is to tap the banjo bolt at the IP.....The tapped banjo bolts that are readily available for the 24V are a different size. Use a 1/8" NPT taper tap. And you will nee a 0-60 psi guage. A 0-40 psi guage would be perfect but no one really makes them.

Heres the pic:



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This is courtesy of Infidel at DTR:

To check fuel pressure on a 12 valve:

I drill and tap the top of the injection pump banjo bolt to 1/8'' pipe
thread, then install a male x female 1/8'' needle valve with 1/8'' tubing
compression fitting in it. Boost gauge or oil pressure tubing pushed
though some 1/4'' tubing to protect against cuts and kinks to the gauge.
For a 12 valve the gauge must be at least 40 psi, 60 psi is best. The gauge can say boost, air, water, fuel or nothing on it, they will all work excellent.

Use no Teflon tape, it doesn't work
with diesel. Instead use anti-seize or Permatex #2. Remember you are
working on the clean side of the filter, keep everything spotless.
Compression fittings with a ferrule that slips over the tubing will leak
if overtightened, finger tight with one half turn of a wrench is plenty.
The ferrule should be replaced if the fitting is ever removed.

If you can tap your manifold for a pyro tapping the banjo bolt is a piece
of cake. Just drill from the inside to keep the hole straight and tap from
the outside. You can also connect to the bleed screw on top of your fuel
filter with the appropriate adapter to tubing if you don't want to tap.
The adaptor is available from TST for $25 they say it is only for temporary use though http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...PROD&ProdID=62 .

After the install start your
engine with the needle valve closed then open it slowly till someone in
the cab signals you that it's just reading pressure. If you tighten down
the packing nut under the valve handle the setting can't move. The valve
will control pulsation and buzzing and can also be shut down in the
unlikely event that you have a leak. Without a valve to restrict the flow
the gauge will pulsate so badly that you won't be able to read it in the
short time before it self destructs.

Parts list; 1/8'' needle valve - $2.50 from the hardware store, plastic
oil pressure tubing kit that comes with the compression fittings - under $10
from any auto parts store. 1/4'' tubing for protective sleeve - less than $2.
Gauge is your choice and may come with tubing. The pressure gauges I
use cost around $10 from here http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.as...keyw ord=NFGA , bringing the total cost to less than $20 and a
couple hours of your time.

From Grainger, needle valve http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pro...835462&ccitem=

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Now I just gotta buy a guage.

George

 

x2 on the banjo bolt.

here's wut i found for fuel pressure specs:

1994-1998 12 valve fuel pressure should be 18-24psi at idle and 28-36 at 2000 rpm with no load.

 

Thanks for the specs on pressure. As to the drilling and tapping of the banjo, that is easy money. I'm a machinest and doing processes such as that are just daily tasks for me so it'll be a simple install. I just gotta decdie what guage will closely match the Z series guages already there since they don't make a 0-60 in the Z series line

George

 

Yup...you can easily get way past 30 psi cruising on open flat road....

 

The pointer would be alil hard to match but Isspro has some with similar type numbers (R5607R) and DiPricol would probably be close too. Hewitt Industries also makes some similar to that.

 

The banjo is probably the easier route ( thats probably why I never did it there )
but I drilled and tapped the port on my FF housing. My 98 24v filter housing had two 1/8" pipe plugs tapped in the top, one pre and one post filter (its almost if they knew the VP was going to be a lemon and needed a easily accessible test port) so when I got this truck I was still on the FP shell shock game from the 24v and wanted to put a gauge on the 12v.
I liked the set-up I had on the filter housing and still had the SS braided lines and needle valve set-up so.... looking at the FF housing I could see the bosses were cast into it but the holes weren't drilled or tapped so I pulled it off and drilled and tapped the most forward boss (post filter) and away I went. I also thought the FF canister would help dampen some of the pulses from the IP but they seem to be pretty obvious if you open the needle valve to much. Just another option for you, plus if you tap both ports it will allow you to put a gauge both pre and post to tell you when a filter change is in order I change mine once I see a 1-2 psi drop.

 

Gstanfield,
If you end up doing this mod take some pics and let us know how it goes I am interested in doing this as well.

Justin

 

So you have your 24V fuel filter housing on your 12V?