12 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 94-98 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with P7100 Injection Pumps

New to Diesels & I have questions.

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Old May 11, 2011 | 09:41 AM
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Default New to Diesels & I have questions.

Hi all,
As you can tell from the subject line, diesels are new to me. Back in my single days (25 yrs ago), I built several HP gas engines. My favorite was the 455 HO /Tri-Power/4sp in my '70' GTO.
I have a 95 12v, that is bone stock & I've been trying to educate myself here & at other sites but still have questions, so of them are:
1) What & where is the "start wheel" & what does it adjust?
2) What is acceptable & what is dangerous EGT? (I understand what happens if too high)
3) What changes can I make to pick up 50 or so hp with the factory equipment?

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Dan
 
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Old May 11, 2011 | 09:58 AM
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personally unless you like smoke i would leave the star wheel alone but on top of the afc housing there is a allen plug take it out(taking care not to drop the sealing washer) and adjust star wheel to the front of the truck...egt's i wouldn't want it above 1200 degrees for long periods of time but less would be better....need more info on the last question. are you trying to get away from buying anything?

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also i always plug off the waste gate hose on all my trucks...but thats just me

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the star wheel is for pre boost but most higher modifications require you to tighten it back up do to all the low end fuel going straight out the tail pipe
 

Last edited by RIGGLE21; May 11, 2011 at 09:58 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old May 11, 2011 | 09:59 AM
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<quote> are you trying to get away from buying anything? </quote>
No, just trying to learn what can be done with what the factory gave us.

<quote>also i always plug off the waste gate hose on all my trucks...but thats just me</quote>

Why? What's the advantages/dis-advantages? I have no turbo experience either, guess I'm a real newbie!
 
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Old May 11, 2011 | 11:27 AM
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94 12valve's Avatar
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don't plug the gate, boost elbows are cheep and a much better choice.

Mod your afc, grind your own plate, and shim your gov springs ... thats enough fuel for way more than 50rwhp increase over stock. And its all free
 
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Old May 11, 2011 | 11:34 AM
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okay here goes...on a bone stock truck i plug the wastegate just to get all the turbo has to offer for cleaning up this new found fuel...run the star wheel all the way to the front as far as i can get it just to get all the low end fuel it can so the afc doesnt pull fuel away so easy....grind the fuel plate to the shape of whatever # you like a #100 plate is easy....timing to around 16-17 degrees....and turn in the fuel adjustment screw under the cover on the rear of the pump....all this can be done at no cost just knowledge...you will have a pretty good running truck with all this done

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IMO i would just buy gov springs and save yourself the greef but thats just me...boost elbows are okay too but not free
 

Last edited by RIGGLE21; May 11, 2011 at 11:34 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old May 11, 2011 | 12:56 PM
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Thanks guys,
Between your answers and some links I've found here, I've pretty much had my questions answered. This link is a really good one for understanding the AFC.


Dan
 
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Old May 11, 2011 | 01:03 PM
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Spend $20 or so on a boost elbow or overspeed the charger
 
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Old May 12, 2011 | 04:22 AM
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I would take care of the kdp issue first.
 
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Old May 12, 2011 | 10:46 PM
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straight pipe it and turn up the pump grind your fuel plate and see what happens
 
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Old May 12, 2011 | 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 97cummins
I would take care of the kdp issue first.
I will agree with that one. Never owned one myself, but from what I've seen I would not want to need a new engine just because I didn't fix the KDP. (Killer Dowel Pin)
 
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