rebuilt 47rh slipping when not in lockup
#11
Its not the pcm because I am running the 47rh and put the lockup and overdrive on a switch, I have no issues with lockup or overdrive comming on the problem is that the transmission just slips bad but when I hit the lockup switch and the converter locks in it appears that it does not slip anymore. so simple terms lockup off transmission slips, lockup on transmission does not slip. Thats the best I can describe my problem as im not a transmission expert, I assumed its the converter not working correctley and slipping not the trans as when its locked up its direct drive though it, Guy who built it says its something els but what els can it be that it dosnt slip when converter is locked up???? Someone here has to be a expert with the transmissions as they seem very simple inside, again worked great for about a month with no issues at all, Fluid is still nice and pink and does not smell burned and is just a little above the full mark so its not low, I have 21 quarts in it as I have a oversiesed hughs transmission pan. Anyone have any idea? dont want to spend 2 grand on a rebuilt unit to discover it was the warrentied torque converter all along. Thanks!!!!!
#12
To do a stall test you hold the brakes as hard as you can to hold the wheels from spinning and do a break stand while watching the rpm where ever the rpm stop is your torque converter stall. You must make sure that the wheels are not turning. I'll get a spec as soon as i can i can't find it on all data so I'll try other sources. This test will tell you if there is a problem with your torque converter and will cause high heat in the trans fluid so don't hold it at stall speed for more than 10 seconds at a time.
#13
#14
Converter is my thought, The guy who built it does not want to believe it though although it has a warrenty thats why im trying to figure out the issue, Converter is a oversied single disc billet converter rated at 850lbs or torque. As for the stall test if the transmission was bad and not the converter wouldnt it rev up anyways if the transmission was slipping? I got a old porsche im trying to sell and if i can sell it im going to probably buy a turbo and triple disc converter anyways and that will at least eliminate that problem as I plan to do more mods this summer so im going to need the triple disc. Lets assume its not the converter because I plan to replace it anyways whats the next thing I would want to look for? I cant imagin its the clutches as I just installed new ones and it seems to slip all the time and you cant even feel it shifting anymore and you knew when it shifted as it has the shift kit installed with the modified valve body. Thanks again for the helpful answers.
#16
NOTE: Stall testing involves determining maximum engine speed obtainable at full throttle with the rear wheels locked and the transmission in D range. This test checks the holding ability of the converter overrunning and transmission clutches.
WARNING: Never allow anyone to stand directly in line with the vehicle front or rear during a stall test. Always block the wheels and fully apply the service and parking brakes during the test .
PROCEDURE
Connect tachometer to engine. Position tachometer so it can be viewed from driver's seat.
Drive vehicle to bring transmission fluid up to normal operating temperature. Vehicle can be driven on road or on chassis dynamometer, if available.
Check transmission fluid level. Add fluid if necessary.
Block front wheels.
Fully apply service and parking brakes.
Open throttle completely and record maximum engine speed registered on tachometer. It takes 4-10 seconds to reach max rpm. Once max rpm has been achieved, do not hold wide open throttle for more than 4-5 seconds.
CAUTION: Stalling the converter causes a rapid increase in fluid temperature. To avoid fluid overheating, hold the engine at maximum rpm for no more than 5 seconds. If engine exceeds 2500 rpm during the test, release the accelerator pedal immediately; transmission clutch slippage is occurring.
If a second stall test is required, cool down fluid before proceeding. Shift into NEUTRAL and run engine at 1000 rpm for 20-30 seconds to cool fluid.
ANALYSIS
Stall Speed Too High
If the stall speed exceeds 2500 rpm, transmission clutch slippage is indicated.
Stall Speed Low
Low stall speed with a properly tuned engine indicate a torque converter overrunning clutch problem. The condition should be confirmed by road testing. A stall speed 260-350 rpm below normal indicates the converter overrunning clutch is slipping. The vehicle also exhibits poor acceleration but operates normally once highway cruise speeds are reached. Torque converter replacement will be necessary.
Stall Speed Normal But Acceleration Poor
If stall speeds are normal (1800 - 2300 rpm) but abnormal throttle opening is required for acceleration, or to maintain cruise speed, the converter overrunning clutch is seized. The torque converter will have to be replaced.
Converter Noise During Test
A whining noise caused by fluid flow is normal during a stall test. However, loud metallic noises indicate a damaged converter. To confirm that the noise is originating from the converter, operate the vehicle at light throttle in DRIVE and NEUTRAL on a hoist and listen for noise coming from the converter housing.
There is all the information for stall testing is says in there that if the rpm goes above 2500 rpm during a stall test the clutches are slipping. Hope this all helps. I can't remember but did we have you check your throttle valve cable position maybe it slipped.
WARNING: Never allow anyone to stand directly in line with the vehicle front or rear during a stall test. Always block the wheels and fully apply the service and parking brakes during the test .
PROCEDURE
Connect tachometer to engine. Position tachometer so it can be viewed from driver's seat.
Drive vehicle to bring transmission fluid up to normal operating temperature. Vehicle can be driven on road or on chassis dynamometer, if available.
Check transmission fluid level. Add fluid if necessary.
Block front wheels.
Fully apply service and parking brakes.
Open throttle completely and record maximum engine speed registered on tachometer. It takes 4-10 seconds to reach max rpm. Once max rpm has been achieved, do not hold wide open throttle for more than 4-5 seconds.
CAUTION: Stalling the converter causes a rapid increase in fluid temperature. To avoid fluid overheating, hold the engine at maximum rpm for no more than 5 seconds. If engine exceeds 2500 rpm during the test, release the accelerator pedal immediately; transmission clutch slippage is occurring.
If a second stall test is required, cool down fluid before proceeding. Shift into NEUTRAL and run engine at 1000 rpm for 20-30 seconds to cool fluid.
ANALYSIS
Stall Speed Too High
If the stall speed exceeds 2500 rpm, transmission clutch slippage is indicated.
Stall Speed Low
Low stall speed with a properly tuned engine indicate a torque converter overrunning clutch problem. The condition should be confirmed by road testing. A stall speed 260-350 rpm below normal indicates the converter overrunning clutch is slipping. The vehicle also exhibits poor acceleration but operates normally once highway cruise speeds are reached. Torque converter replacement will be necessary.
Stall Speed Normal But Acceleration Poor
If stall speeds are normal (1800 - 2300 rpm) but abnormal throttle opening is required for acceleration, or to maintain cruise speed, the converter overrunning clutch is seized. The torque converter will have to be replaced.
Converter Noise During Test
A whining noise caused by fluid flow is normal during a stall test. However, loud metallic noises indicate a damaged converter. To confirm that the noise is originating from the converter, operate the vehicle at light throttle in DRIVE and NEUTRAL on a hoist and listen for noise coming from the converter housing.
There is all the information for stall testing is says in there that if the rpm goes above 2500 rpm during a stall test the clutches are slipping. Hope this all helps. I can't remember but did we have you check your throttle valve cable position maybe it slipped.
Last edited by 1978skidootnt; 05-02-2011 at 07:54 AM.
#18
Thanks for the great info on the stall test! Ill try that as soon as I get a new turbo in. I have not checked the cable and should probably do that, Is it somewhat common for them to slip? Eaither way my porsche is on ebay now so with the money im buying a tripple disc converter as I will need one any way and a new turbo. If it still does it with a new converter at least I will know if thats the problem or not and we can go from there but I will try the test and see what I can do. Keep sending the responses the more help the better.
Im new to this form thing and everyone has been very helpful and nobody has had any smart *** remarks so this seems like a great form!
Im new to this form thing and everyone has been very helpful and nobody has had any smart *** remarks so this seems like a great form!
#19
Ok guys I may of figured it out but I need some help from you as my turbo wont be here till thursday so I cant test it to see if its fixed, I went to move the truck and the throttle stuck from sitting so I popped the hood to release it and noticed my TV cable had become disconected, No I do not know if it just disconected when the throttle stuck or if it happened a while ago and that is the issue, Can someone tell me if a non hooked up TV cable would make the trans so I could not feel it shifting and make the trans slip? When I towed my trailer a while back I almost didnt make it home as it was slipping so much would it cause a big loss in pressure on the clutches if its not hooked up? Please answer this question if you know for sure if its the problem or not as I dont want to spend money if that was it, Thanks so much!
#20
All fixed
Ok so got my new turbo on and now the truck works great, turns out it was the TV cable. I think what happened is I blew the intercooler tube off as it wasnt over the flange rite and when I was putting it back on I eaither knocked the TV cable off or removed it for more space and forgot all about it. Now new turbo is on pushing a easy 30# of boost which I will bring up to 35-40 soon, Everyone I read on here has said when there TV cable broke it smoked the clutch packs but I even towed a loaded trailer with mine slipping so bad and it still works great now with no slipping and shifts all gears, I do have the red eagle clutches and koleen steels in it so maby that saved me I dont know. But anyways truck is all fixed and back on the road and has been for 4 days now. Thanks to all who chimed in and helped and im glad it ended up being something so simple.
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