Yeah, I'm just saying that because of the earlier posts saying people are running 11 second trucks with stock head bolts. Just don't really understand why... I mean at that point...

 

Not to mention the fact that the conversation would be completely turned the other way if I said I was running my twins without studs. Everybody would be sittin here saying what the heck dude you're stupid for not studding it.

 

Not I.

 

11s doesnt take 10grand in the engine. maximum's 94' has 5k in engine. maxed pump, 5x16, lc dv's, 62/65/12 over a s480. torqued head bolts... pretty basic... its budget built..... but... yea theres a BUT.. it is a 1/4 mile truck... doesnt see DD

 

Good reading! I cant decide wether to go with Pappys head bolts or studs. But this is all interesting. One of you toward the beginning of my post said you had your head ported and polished...what did it cost and what gain did you see did it run any cooler?

 

Most trucks see lower EGT's and slightly faster spooling at the very least.

 

Can you put a number on the cooler temp say 5* or 100* Keeping cooler is what Im after what did it cost to have done?

 

If you're lookin to lower EGT's I would look into water injection. CoolingMist makes a nice entry level boost controlled kit for a little over $300.

 

Some people say up to 300*. But it depends on how hot you run. If you only run 600* it's not going drop you to 300* But if you run 1300* all the time it might get you down around 1000*

Am I clear? It also depends on how much you spray. You spray enough you can run it real cold

 

The water systems they are selling don not provide the pressure to work like they are intended to. If you want an egt drop tuning and intercoolers would be better for a street truck. In all reality though you're runing a 2 valve head with static timing it's going to be hot when you start knocking on 600 horse.