Thanks for the quick reply. That should save me a bit of time in the process. None of it has been difficult as of yet, just time consuming. I'm sure I would have been in there sooner or later for gaskets.....

 

And another thing before you go to pull the camshaft your gunna have to go out and get some 1/2in wood dowls and cut them the length of your push rods. Cut you twelve of them and round each end of with sandpaprer or I used a table grinder, it's alot faster. Then you put your wood dowls in where your push rods go and tap them into the top of your lifters. After you have all 12 of them in pull them up until the lifter bottoms out and tie the wood dowls up. After you do that your camshaft should come out. MAke damn sure you tapped in the wood dowls into the top of the lifters good cause if one of them lifters come off when the cam is out your gunna have he'll getting it back


Brandon

 

Yep good point and if the engine is ever outa the truck or tappet cover off just zip tie each 2 tappets together but wooden dowels work the best for when engine is in truck after uve pulled all the pushrods keep them in order, also when reassembly lube the hell outa that cam with white grease assembly lube and b careful also depending on miles on cam inspect it for flaking off the lobes most are junk after around 150-200k, and torque yur injection pump gear nut while som1 holds baring tool to 150-155ftlbs (dont go any more!!!!!!) with snap on torque wrench seen friends break at 157 was the last recalled torque on didgital torque wrench, as long as theres no oil around the threads or shaft itll hold use brake clean or either eavorates and is not oil based, good luck!!

 

Thanks for the input. I have to run to the hardware store laterfor those parts. Was also going to get a piece of PVC to slide in in place of the cam "just in case". I saw some where something simliar they used when replacing the actual tappets and fishing them out of the camshaft opening. I think I have everything set knowledge wise thanks to you guys and ths site. Only thing left to figure will be resetting the valves, ie feeler gauges? torque? That will be another day....

 

It's easy setting valves


Brandon

 

Yea pvc is a good safety feature, .010 on intake valves, .020 on exhaust valves with feeler gauge i had a machinist buddy of mine make me 2 of each outa stainless since i do so many of them, 18ft lbs on front cover bolt torque if i remember right around tht for cam retainer as well usually torqued it a smidge higher, if u pulled rocker arms the rocker bolts are 18 ft lb as well except for head bolts retorqued my dads to 110ft lbs and he has been spiking 37 lbs of boost with it been running 2.5 years now

 

Getting ready to work on this project again Saturday morning. One more quick question if you don't mind. I am fairly certain of the answer already, but does the lift pump have to come off or can you "work around it". The engine is still in the truck, and I am using wooden dowels through the head. Thanks.

 

Just finished getting the timing case off the truck.. Lots of good information on this site to get the job done. A service manual is also a handy tool to have as well. Hopefully I can get my case welded up Monday and start putting it all back together.

 

instead of buying the kit can you just mod a washer to tab it?

 

Yes you can mod a washer, or stake the case to keep it in. There is a thread here where the OP uses a bent piece of coat hanger to get the job done. There is not a lot of momentum or force behind the pin, so it shouldn't take a whole lot to keep it in place. Great information on this site.