fuel mileage
#11
The milage differences between the different fuel plates is inconsequential. After you have a free flowing air filter, 4" or 5" exhaust, and the timing bumped to 16 degrees or so - the mileage is a function of how heavy your right foot is. And also you will get better mileage with the 3.55 gears.
#12
yeah 3.55s are amazing
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btw i have a 215 pump is my timing already good?
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yeah 100 will get you the most and if you dont want alot of smoke dont move the afc all the way forward tune it
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btw i have a 215 pump is my timing already good?
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yeah 100 will get you the most and if you dont want alot of smoke dont move the afc all the way forward tune it
Last edited by blowinsmoke12v; 10-30-2010 at 12:42 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#14
OK, I should have looked under the hood before guessing at the numbers, but thanks Dirt Diver, fivepointohno, bobcat67; that's what I thought; lower RPM/mph seemed like a no-brainer to me, I don't know why my neighbor doesn't get that. I'll have to start scouting for the 3.55s... and the money to buy them with.
Dirt Diver, you'll need to spell it out for me, and don't use any big words... what's the smoke screw?
Now can anyone tell me which # fuel plate is going to get me the best mileage in that '94 5-speed 12V?
One guy was talking about a #100, which I think is a modified #0, full-forward. Can anyone prop that one up?
Thanks
Dirt Diver, you'll need to spell it out for me, and don't use any big words... what's the smoke screw?
Now can anyone tell me which # fuel plate is going to get me the best mileage in that '94 5-speed 12V?
One guy was talking about a #100, which I think is a modified #0, full-forward. Can anyone prop that one up?
Thanks
Id probably go with a #100fuel plate because i really dont see the point of having a bunch of fuel at bottom end (unless you plow snow or sled pull with) like a #0 and the smoke screw is at the back of the pump. theres a cover with a fixed bolt and a flat head screw take thoses 2 screws out and there should be a nut that is against the pump and a small torhex that goes thru the middle and touches the diaphgram. Unloosen the nut and back out that small screw until it barely touches the diaphgram. And that will get rid of having extra fuel when started and idleing (Thats probably the #1 cause of bad fuel milage during winter) Because i always let my truck idle for a few mins when i first start it. And i also suggest, read all the stickies at the top of the page and get every familiar with fuel plates, and the AFC and few other things.
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