if the block has been decked or the head has been shaved you may want to have the pistons machined not nessaceraly have to have fly cuts. i know 2 people thats put a 188/210 cam in and had markings on pistons from not enough valve clearence. i know 1 person running a 188/220 cam that didnt have any problems with (but he hasnt pulled head either). and its best to change pushrods especially with 4gsk running a aftermerket cam. and i know of a website you can get a brand new s362 non extended tip borg warner t3 foot for ...$ pm me ill probably be buyin one next year

 

I have not taken the head off yet, but I will have it checked out, and see if it needs to be decked.

I was hoping to go through the engine now, but decided to tackle the suspension first.

Once I get to the engine, I am sure I will have more questions about specifics. You are saying that if I do the cam I need to cut the pistons (not something I should do myself?), the 4KGSK, different pushrods... this is starting to sound expensive.

As for the engine plans I really just want to get the truck running and rolling, but the main heart of the engine will be hard to get to later so that stuff shoulf be done now. Injectors, different turbos that stuff will happen later.

 

i tell you what ask dave swank (94 12valve) or dustin denton (cummin un glued)

 

Sorry ask them what?

 

Although it is cloudy and rainy in Oregon about 265 days per year, the last few weeks have been HOT and muggy. I have had a little time to work on the 4-link for the truck. I have to say that grinding and welding in the shop when it is 90* inside was miserable. The grinder gets too hot to hold in a few minutes, whatever I weld gets super hot fast so I hope I do not mess anything up by overheating it.




Here is the rear axle tube, I built a level surface for the mounts out of 1/4" plate. The mounts are from Airbagit.com they custom built the mounts, and the entire system. They even provided the huge heim joints. The tubes are 2" with .25 wall thickness, this stuff is heavy!




Another view from above from the rear of the truck




Close up of the upper rear 4-link mount... YES those are just tack welds, and yes I will be cleaning up the weld on the tubes, I ground the seam to a V and welded it with two passes, then filled any low spots and started to grind it back down... so it is not perfect looking yet, but it would be seamless when I am done.




This is the front upper 4-link mount, again I am just tacking it so I can make sure things are good.




Here you can see more of the link.





So what do you think??

 

man thats awesome how did u make the links? i need to make extended control arms for my dodge but dont want to spend 350 when i get the lift for it. and ask dave or dustin what all you will need if you put a cam in it

 

I worked with AirBagit.com they custom designed my air ride system. I will have 4 bags in the rear, and 2 in the front. Those mounts are what they designed and built for me. I am finding out now how hard 1/4" plate is to bend making those mounts even more amazing. I have some other parts I want to lower the upper bag mounts, and may go back to them for the other parts. It sounds like they are going to charge me $50 setup fee plus $15 for each part, there are 3 bends per part and several angles so I guess that is not bad.

If you want to talk with them contact Aaron at aaron@aimind.com he can take care of you. Their prices are great, and the parts seem great so far. I have the full FBSS air ride system, valves, controlls, and everything looks like it is well built.

 

sounds like u got all that took care of my friend but im talking about just the bars with the end on it. u know the control arms on a dodge 2 on each side? well those bars for ur truck u have looks like i could do somethin like that with mine when i left it so did the make the rods for u too?

 

Sorry my mistake, they supplied the ends for the bars, they are called heim joints you can pick them up many places. Then there is a threaded insert that I welded to DOM tube, that is the more chrome looking tapered part. You will also need a jamb nut. The Heim joints are both normal thread, but they make them in a reverse thread. you can have a right on one end and a left on the other so you just need to turn the tube to extend or shorten the length... the people I talked to said to just go with both the same thread so there is no possibility of hitting something and loosening the locknut then messing up the alignment.

The DOM tube was something I picked up locally, it is very heavy so I saved some cash not shipping it. The Heim joints etc seem to be cheapest online and the ones I picked up were a bt less than other places. Hope that helps

 

ok man thanks for the help ill have to find somethin like the tubing pretty cheap