Hey guys! how do i bump up my timing to be able to feel a difference. Nothing crazy and not too little maybe intermediate??? And how is this done??? Thanks

 

i would have someone do it unless you have the kit

 

The only special tool I used is a 2 bolt puller. Use a socket and long handles 1/2in drive ratchet on the altenator pully bolt to roll the engine over, it will only go one way. You will need to get the engine to "top dead center compression" (TDCC) on the #1 cylinder. You can do one of 2 things here, either pull the valve cover and watch the rockers on #1 until both are loose, or there is a timing pin located behind the power steering/vacuum pump. To use the pin you just have to rotate it to unlock it and then while pushing in on the pin have someone roll the engine over with the ratchet until the pin goes in. That is TDCC, just dont forget to pull the pin back out and lock it in place. then pull the oil fill tube off. behind there is the gear for the injection pump. Loosen and remove the gear nut. Then install the puller and pull the gear loose. Then BUMP the rachet just barely in the direction you were rolling it over before. About a 1/4in to 1/2in of belt movement. Reinstall the pump gear and tighten the crap out of the nut. put all back together and remove tools.

This is roughly a 2-4 degree timing bump. Doing this to my old 97 really made a difference in performance and a slight gain in MPG'S

 

you can get the kit for 200.. good thing to have has dv socket to so you can put bigger in

 

I set mine to 16* and it really makes the throttle response snappy.

I basically used the method explained by Lil Red above, except that I also had my front cover off to do the KDP, so I had access to all the gears.

I also was a tad more precise in the method of determining the timing by calculating the amount of movement needed at the harmonic balancer to get the desired timing, then bending a pointer wire to measure that movement. About 3/8" of movement at the balancer will get you 16*.

Loosen the pump gear (best to pull it and REALLY clean the bore of the gear and the shaft of the pump -- dry with non-oily alcohol or something like acetone to get it perfectly clean -- so the gear will not slip when re-torqued. Rotate the engine counter-clock-wise the required amount, then reinstall the pump gear. Now, when it is at TDC, the pump is advanced the desired amount.

Since doing mine the backyard way, I've also procured the Snap On tools to check everything the right way, which I'll do one of these days, but the truck runs super so I'm in no rush. Can't believe the difference in starting -- it is almost instant compared to before when I had to crank it, sometimes a lot.

 

TSB 18-10-94 Rev. A
here is a step by step with the chart

 

Theres a much better chart here - and it will take you to 16 degrees:

PDR Diesel Inc. The turbo diesel performance specialists! - P7100 Timing

 

Very interesting Ive heard of this and been ask if Ive fixed mine yet but didnt understand NOW i know thanks for the great info. DOC

 

You DO want to check this dowel pin and also the bolts that hold the front cover to the engine, as they can all loosen and cause damage to the cover. I found my own KDP sticking out about 1/8" and my engine only had 55K miles. All the front cover bolts were just finger tight. I pulled each bolt, one at a time, and applied locktite, then torqued to factory specs. I drove the KDP back into its bore, then staked the edge of the hole in 3 places with a punch to make sure that the pin could no longer slip out of its bore.

Easy work, except for the time involved to pull the accessories from the front of the engine to gain access. Glad I did it. Also a GREAT time to play with timing, as you can see everything right there in front of you.

Total process took me about half a day to finish, and it was my first time doing this on a Cummins.

You may want to get yourself one of these engine "barring" tools (flywheel turning tool), which makes spinning the engine over very easy:
YA9565A, Engine Turning Tool, 3/8" Female Square Drive

The tool slips into a round hole on the passenger side of the bell housing, just below the turbo housing. You can see it easier from the bottom side, and the hole is usually covered by a rubber plug that just pops out of the hole (use a screwdriver to pry it a bit). I then used a long extension so that I could stand at the front of the engine and turn it at will with a short-handled ratchet wrench. The tool multiplies the torque, so turning the engine is easy.

You can pull the pump timing gear with any puller that will let you use two bolts, such as a harmonic balancer puller or one of these:
CJ83C, Puller, Pully and Gear