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Newbie
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2
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From: Toledo, WA
new to this forum
Hi, my login is vmxpnw. I have only owned 1 diesel and that is a 1997 Dodge, extended cab 2500 4x4. I bought it new in 97 and have owned it ever since. About 4 years ago at 210,000 miles I had a oil in water problem thatI never actually solved. I finally bought a used 96 motor and switched them out. I have yet to put any serious miles on the truck. Other than the new Southbend clutch not totally disengaging it seems to run fine. I want to do some low budget hop ups sutch as a fuel plate and found this site when I searched for p7100 fuelplate profiles. I was hoping to machine a new profile on mine for better performance. I still want to find out what went wrong with my other motor as it is a 215 hp and the one I just installed is a 180. Thanks for reading.
It sounds like the oil cooler went out on your other motor.
Diesel Fan
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 38
Likes: 2
From: Carrollton, GA
mods wise.....you can do a fuel plate, bhaf, and some pump tuning...here's a write-up on tuning the pump w/ pictures. haha
afc mods (lots of pics) - DieselRam.com
you can also add some GSK and 60lb valve springs to help the truck run better. I'm putting some 4K GSK's in mine.
afc mods (lots of pics) - DieselRam.com
you can also add some GSK and 60lb valve springs to help the truck run better. I'm putting some 4K GSK's in mine.
Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 238
Likes: 34
Welcome to the board!
The guys above are on the right track. In this order, you want to be able to monitor performance (gauges), make sure the transmission can handle the power (clutch), then add air flow (BHAF and 4" exhaust), then start adding fuel to the mix.
Also, check out all the electrical issues on that series Dodge truck to make sure that that stuff doesn't otherwise halt a good build. In particular, Dodges are very sensitive to bad grounds, and there are connections everywhere. Chase all those down and make sure they are good.
Fuel wise, there are several ways to go, depending on how much power you want, how much money you have, and if you want to go incremental or whole hog out of the box. Start by making sure that you have enough clean fuel to do what comes next. That means cleaning or replacing the pre-strainer, changing the filter, and making sure the lines don't leak. Second is tuning the pump. You can add a plate (which I recommend for street use) and/or slide the AFC and adjust the smoke screw for low end power. As you go up the ladder, power wise (and prove that you have the airflow to deal with the increased fuel) you can run without a plate, add larger injectors, etc.
I'd say that SDX 5 x 12 injectors are a good place to start. Leave the DV alone for now. Definitely add 3000 or 4000 rpm GSK. Use 60# valve springs for the 4000 rpm kit and realize that Cummins engines really don't make much power above 3400 rpm, so no use in twisting it all that hard. It isn't a small block gasser. The GSK does make a huge difference in drivability, as you can rev when you wish and pull hard for a while to keep up with traffic.
You should also probably bump your timing to about 16*. More than that just washes down the cylinder walls at the lower rpms. At this point, without injectors you'll be solidly in the 300 hp 750 tq range, with injectors you can add almost another hundred hp to that (if you have enough air!).
If your EGT is too hot, you will either need to back off or add air. That means turbo. Twins are the way to go, but pricey. The reason they're good is that you can spool them without going nuts on fuel. A turbo, no matter how big, that cannot spool is worthless. Perhaps more so than not enough turbo that actually spools and adds air, hence twins, which give the best of both worlds. Otherwise for a single, the S300 seems to be a good choice, as is the Super B. Others who have a ton more knowledge than me can chime in on the turbo issue.
The idea is to make a good driving machine that doesn't break the bank, smoke out the neighborhood (for no reason, due to mismatched parts) and that puts a smile on your face every time you press the skinny pedal on the right. Get this far, learn the truck and the diesel business, then the sky is the limit.
The guys above are on the right track. In this order, you want to be able to monitor performance (gauges), make sure the transmission can handle the power (clutch), then add air flow (BHAF and 4" exhaust), then start adding fuel to the mix.
Also, check out all the electrical issues on that series Dodge truck to make sure that that stuff doesn't otherwise halt a good build. In particular, Dodges are very sensitive to bad grounds, and there are connections everywhere. Chase all those down and make sure they are good.
Fuel wise, there are several ways to go, depending on how much power you want, how much money you have, and if you want to go incremental or whole hog out of the box. Start by making sure that you have enough clean fuel to do what comes next. That means cleaning or replacing the pre-strainer, changing the filter, and making sure the lines don't leak. Second is tuning the pump. You can add a plate (which I recommend for street use) and/or slide the AFC and adjust the smoke screw for low end power. As you go up the ladder, power wise (and prove that you have the airflow to deal with the increased fuel) you can run without a plate, add larger injectors, etc.
I'd say that SDX 5 x 12 injectors are a good place to start. Leave the DV alone for now. Definitely add 3000 or 4000 rpm GSK. Use 60# valve springs for the 4000 rpm kit and realize that Cummins engines really don't make much power above 3400 rpm, so no use in twisting it all that hard. It isn't a small block gasser. The GSK does make a huge difference in drivability, as you can rev when you wish and pull hard for a while to keep up with traffic.
You should also probably bump your timing to about 16*. More than that just washes down the cylinder walls at the lower rpms. At this point, without injectors you'll be solidly in the 300 hp 750 tq range, with injectors you can add almost another hundred hp to that (if you have enough air!).
If your EGT is too hot, you will either need to back off or add air. That means turbo. Twins are the way to go, but pricey. The reason they're good is that you can spool them without going nuts on fuel. A turbo, no matter how big, that cannot spool is worthless. Perhaps more so than not enough turbo that actually spools and adds air, hence twins, which give the best of both worlds. Otherwise for a single, the S300 seems to be a good choice, as is the Super B. Others who have a ton more knowledge than me can chime in on the turbo issue.
The idea is to make a good driving machine that doesn't break the bank, smoke out the neighborhood (for no reason, due to mismatched parts) and that puts a smile on your face every time you press the skinny pedal on the right. Get this far, learn the truck and the diesel business, then the sky is the limit.
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