Hey now! My cummins has legitimate excuses Mr. Rattler! Soon enough she'll be going better than ever hehe. I'm pretty excited.

Shut yo mouf klein!! We dont take kindly to your type 'round these parts

 

If you really want the cheap way I wouldn't do any taller than a 3inch lift block and actually the lift blocks are made to adjust your pinion angle. You could also try an ad-a-leaf setup to your stock spring pack which is good for a few inches. Leaf springs are a better set up to use but expect to use a shim to adjust your pinion angle for the leafs.
I have spent a good few years playing with leaf spring and block combs on my other truck and leafs are the best when it comes to axle wrap and what not but anytime you ad more springs or arch to a spring they generally tend to be stiffer.

Oh and don't forget you will need new rear shocks and generally any more than 3 to 4"s of lift you will most likely be looking at drive line work too.

Hope that was some help for you. If you have any other questions feel free to ask.

 

Excellent input thanks man. Sounds like a lot of work

 

Unfortunately anything that has to do with suspension modification is usually a bit of work but generally worth the effort.

 

Ok well I appreciate it. I'll look into pricing and stuff but I'll prolly just leave it as a pipe dream

 

There REALLY is no way to use the words 6" lift and cheap in the same sentence. You get one or the other.

Think if terms of leverage... When you raise your springs 6" over your axle, you are adding a long lever arm that will allow the axle to wrap more than ever. With the torque of a Cummins pushing that axle, you will wheel-hop all over the place before you ever get the power to the ground (if you don't snap a leaf or break a u-bolt first!).

You can get a decent engineered 6" lift, but they take real dollars to buy and install, and if you are having to ask the question, you'll probably need the help of a pro to get it done...

Check out BDS -- lifetime warranty on their components and they are made well.

 

Oh so having a higher lift will increase axle wrap/hop?? Didn't know that either. Thanks.

 

yes it will, the higher things get gain more leverage, and with basic physics, leverage will cause to break things quicker. lift springs will case less wrap that blocks because the u bolts are much shorter, but when you add a tall block and extended u bolts you can wrap the axle under the springs due to the leverage of the blocks. that is the reason why you NEVER run a block on a front axle, because when you break hard or take off, the leverage of the block can cause the axle to break or come out from under the truck. same theory as a rear axle as well, but the difference is there is not near as much weight proportion on the rear as the front

 

Man you guys are so s mart on this forum. I love diesel bombers. Thanks man. I'll prolly just keep it stock I guess. I like having an unwrapped axle

 

There are remedys for axle hop and spring twist. But again, "cheap" isn't part of the sentence.

Here is a severe case:

A single traction bar welded to the rear axle, and extending to the crossmember near the front of the drive shaft will cure much of that -- but not with big lift blocks.



Here is one of the most common anti-wrap bars in use by the off-road crowd:

Off Road Truck Traction Bar 101 - 4-Wheel & Off-Road Magazine