i would probably start with a solenoid that would be cheaper than a starter. if you have a good battery and a weak battery or one not rated as high as the other one it will pull power from the good battery to charge the weak battery as if you were jumping another battery in a different truck. its the same principal its just a good and weak battery in your own truck.

 

double check the ground from batt to block, short of that, its probably the starter IMO. like said above, pull that small battery and run it off one. I can't justify the theory behind it, but mismatched batteries never work out for me and I always wind up with one effed up. I've never had a problem starting a cummins off one battery, but I don't know how much it stresses the batt.

 

Checking it out, thanks! The price is great but I've NEVER messed w/ a starter like that before. Wonder how much a shop would charge to redoe it if I provide the parts?

Ya I'm sure he did too the more I think about it

Thanks much

I've checked grounds and the wiring; it looks all good under there :irk:

 

If you can take the starter out you can rebuild it! It's not that bad and a great learning experience. All you need is basic hand tools a day in the driveway. You can do it!

 

Oh ya? The starter looks easy enough to access and I've got some decent tools. Is it pretty much bolting/unbolting parts to rebuild it?

 

you need to have a 10 mm socket 12 point socked, or atleast i did for mine, i took my starter to a shop told them i wanted everything new in it was under a hundred,
i would put your bigger battery on the driver side, i drove around a long time with an 850 cca on the drivers side and a 450 on the passanger side

 

I'll excuse your ignorance since your from texas. I realize you just can't help it. You have never tried to start a diesel when it is cold out have you? 40w oil is pretty thick when it gets cold. ANd if your somewhere that you can't plug your truck in your going to NEED two batteries. Trust me. In the summer you can get away with it pretty easily. Not during the winter.

And only converted gasoline engines use glow plugs?

85_305 Do you have access to a voltmeter or a battery charger? YOu could test voltage drops(or resistance) across your cables and the starter to make sure one of your cables doesn't have corrosion inside it. You could also put the meter across the battery and see what your cranking voltage is.

You can take the starter into most auto parts stores. They will usually test it for free. However the Larry B starter contacts are a good idea to install anyway as they also protect your fuel shutoff solenoid.(or is it the other way around? GAH! I knew all this a one time honest)

THe tick tick tick is usually caused by too low a voltage at the solenoid. Basically everything has juice just not ENOUGH. WHether that is because your battery is too small or mismatched or corrosion in the cables or worn starter contacts(or possibly defective windings) is up to you to find out.

 

Correct its something like 3 screws to access the contacts and 2 nuts to get them off

 

Ya its 12* plus windchill around here almost daily, lower at night, not feeling too confident on only one battery, but I see the point he is trying to make. So what you are saying is IF my starter is to blame, it is the starter contacts for SURE? Would that 39$ starter rebuild kit posted be enough to repair my starter, or should I ONLY get the starter contacts or brushes or whatever they are called?

Oh snap.. this sounds almost too easy!!

 

No I can't necessarily say for sure. I'm not there to work on it. I can't tell you it is any one thing because of that fact. Internet troubleshooting is a GUIDE because all we can do is point out to you the possibilities.

But I can say it is more than likely the problem if the starter is to blame. For how easy it is to install it and how cheap it is, its a good place to start if your going to start replacing stuff.

But like I said, I would get a voltmeter(even a cheap one will work) and do some tests first before I blame any one thing.