Lacking power at shift
#11
#12
I don't understand the purpose of saying wow did you mean will? And under which filter?
You should be able to see it, on the driver side of the truck towards the back about a foot from the brake reservoir, towards the engine. It's kinda deep in there. It has a black nipple on the bottom to where if you push up on it, it drains the diesel from the filter. So, if it's had water in there that's how you can dump it. You'll have to retain that release thing for the new filter, too.
If it's hand tight it won't be too much of a problem spinning off. However, if it's on there it's going to take muscle twisting the thing off. You can't really put one of those oil filter tools in there, it's too tight. But that means it shouldn't have been tighten by one of those things, either. So, it's probably best to do it when the engine is real cold. I don't remember which way loosens it, though.
After you spin it off, you'll have to take off the plastic thing on the bottom and stick it on the new filter. I also recommend filling the filter full of diesel before spinning it back on (although, it won't be easy.), because it takes forever to fill up with that primer button (which is located a bit in front of the filter, and a bit lower. And if that primer button is broken or weak, you'll probable never get it started.
You should be able to see it, on the driver side of the truck towards the back about a foot from the brake reservoir, towards the engine. It's kinda deep in there. It has a black nipple on the bottom to where if you push up on it, it drains the diesel from the filter. So, if it's had water in there that's how you can dump it. You'll have to retain that release thing for the new filter, too.
If it's hand tight it won't be too much of a problem spinning off. However, if it's on there it's going to take muscle twisting the thing off. You can't really put one of those oil filter tools in there, it's too tight. But that means it shouldn't have been tighten by one of those things, either. So, it's probably best to do it when the engine is real cold. I don't remember which way loosens it, though.
After you spin it off, you'll have to take off the plastic thing on the bottom and stick it on the new filter. I also recommend filling the filter full of diesel before spinning it back on (although, it won't be easy.), because it takes forever to fill up with that primer button (which is located a bit in front of the filter, and a bit lower. And if that primer button is broken or weak, you'll probable never get it started.
#13
My recommendation for getting it started after is to fill it about half full of diesel makes it easier to get it back on without coating yourself in that nasty stuff. After you get it back together cycle your Key on and off a few times and hold your Go pedal on the floor for a few seconds to keep it running, it won't necessarily idle after you've got air in the system from removing the filter.
#14
A dirty fuel filter can make a world of difference.
94-96's use a spin on canister fuel filter/separator, 97-98's use a filter cartridge inside a housing.
Drain fuel from filter into a container. 94-96's: Put hose on drain valve and hold valve up, 97-98's: Turn yellow handle on top of housing.
Disconnect Water-In-Fuel Sensor electrical connector. 94-96: Don't let wires get tangled while spinning off.
94-96: Spin off filter, 97-98: Loosen 14mm nut & pop housing off, then remove filter cartridge from housing.
Install new O-Rings that came with the new filter, rub diesel on O-rings once they are in place.
Pour the fuel you drained from housing into the new filter. Strain fuel with a shop towel or paper towel over a funnel to get all sediment out.
Re-install the filter the reverse order as removal.
Reconnect W-I-F Sensor connector. 94-96: Don't let wires get tangled while spinning on.
94-96: Prime Lift Pump Plunger 20-30 times, 97-98: Loosen bleeder screw on top, then prime Lift Pump Plunger til fuel comes out of bleeder, tighten bleeder.
Start truck and hold RPM til the studdering & coughing clears up.
Close the hood.
Takes about 10-20 minutes depending on how **** you are, this applies to both types of filters. Always drain fuel from filter before removing, always put clean fuel into new filter before reinstalling. Always prime lift pump. Always install new O-rings (supplied with filter). Cleaning the pre-filter (fuel heater strainer) can help also.
94-96's use a spin on canister fuel filter/separator, 97-98's use a filter cartridge inside a housing.
Drain fuel from filter into a container. 94-96's: Put hose on drain valve and hold valve up, 97-98's: Turn yellow handle on top of housing.
Disconnect Water-In-Fuel Sensor electrical connector. 94-96: Don't let wires get tangled while spinning off.
94-96: Spin off filter, 97-98: Loosen 14mm nut & pop housing off, then remove filter cartridge from housing.
Install new O-Rings that came with the new filter, rub diesel on O-rings once they are in place.
Pour the fuel you drained from housing into the new filter. Strain fuel with a shop towel or paper towel over a funnel to get all sediment out.
Re-install the filter the reverse order as removal.
Reconnect W-I-F Sensor connector. 94-96: Don't let wires get tangled while spinning on.
94-96: Prime Lift Pump Plunger 20-30 times, 97-98: Loosen bleeder screw on top, then prime Lift Pump Plunger til fuel comes out of bleeder, tighten bleeder.
Start truck and hold RPM til the studdering & coughing clears up.
Close the hood.
Takes about 10-20 minutes depending on how **** you are, this applies to both types of filters. Always drain fuel from filter before removing, always put clean fuel into new filter before reinstalling. Always prime lift pump. Always install new O-rings (supplied with filter). Cleaning the pre-filter (fuel heater strainer) can help also.
Last edited by TXHC; 03-24-2010 at 01:25 AM.
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