12 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 94-98 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with P7100 Injection Pumps

Rack Plug?

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  #11  
Old 12-28-2009, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Dusterb318
I thought it was anything over 16mm on a 215 pump and the retard notches come into play.
Originally Posted by Smokem
Timing starts to retard just after 13mm.
Originally Posted by Smokem
Let's make this simple, using a starting point of 15° static advance;

13mm - 15°
14mm - 14.5°
15mm - 14°
16mm - 13.5°
17mm - 13°
18mm - 12.5°
19mm - 12°
20mm - 11.5°
21mm - 11°
 
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  #12  
Old 12-28-2009, 12:31 PM
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so is the mack rack plug the best?
 
  #13  
Old 12-28-2009, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by dan33klein
so is the mack rack plug the best?
the best what?
 
  #14  
Old 12-28-2009, 01:55 PM
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best rack plug to buy. i thought thats what i heard awhile ago
 
  #15  
Old 12-28-2009, 05:28 PM
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Don't bother, it's that easy.
 
  #16  
Old 12-29-2009, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 94 12valve
so since i have the 215 pump and my timing retards i could lets say advance the timing to about 19.5 or 20 degrees to keep my egts low under light throttle and the timing will retard to about 16 degrees under wot to stay in the safe zone without head studs??? just wondering didnt know if anyone else had thought of it before or what. trying to find a good reason to keep this 215 pump and not go buy a built one

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Originally Posted by 94 12valve
this was suposed to be with my last post

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Originally Posted by Smokem
Let's make this simple, using a starting point of 15° static advance;

13mm - 15°
14mm - 14.5°
15mm - 14°
16mm - 13.5°
17mm - 13°
18mm - 12.5°
19mm - 12°
20mm - 11.5°
21mm - 11°


Read more: https://www.dieselbombers.com/12-val...#ixzz0b6MfERNn
 

Last edited by 12.valve.hauler; 12-29-2009 at 12:02 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #17  
Old 12-29-2009, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 12.valve.hauler
so since i have the 215 pump and my timing retards i could lets say advance the timing to about 19.5 or 20 degrees to keep my egts low under light throttle and the timing will retard to about 16 degrees under wot to stay in the safe zone without head studs??? just wondering didnt know if anyone else had thought of it before or what. trying to find a good reason to keep this 215 pump and not go buy a built one

---AutoMerged DoublePost---


this was suposed to be with my last post

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Originally Posted by Smokem
Let's make this simple, using a starting point of 15° static advance;

13mm - 15°
14mm - 14.5°
15mm - 14°
16mm - 13.5°
17mm - 13°
18mm - 12.5°
19mm - 12°
20mm - 11.5°
21mm - 11°


Read more: https://www.dieselbombers.com/12-val...#ixzz0b6MfERNn
you could but 20* is still a good amount of timing with head bolts. Also timing is only retarded 4* at 21mm of rack travel, most run 19mm of rack on there 215 pumps for a street truck.
 
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12.valve.hauler (01-04-2010)
  #18  
Old 12-29-2009, 03:42 PM
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Compensating for static timing loss is only half the battle.
 
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12.valve.hauler (01-04-2010)
  #19  
Old 01-04-2010, 11:02 PM
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well then what is the other half smokem? trying to figure it out so when i go to do it i have no big suprises to keep me in the garage
 
  #20  
Old 01-05-2010, 10:09 AM
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The other issue can only be compensated by changing the plungers, so, like I said before, don't bother.
 
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12.valve.hauler (01-05-2010)
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