Yeah, thats the first i've heard of the cam. I've never seen a pic of a 24v w/ the valve cover off, but was told its just a larger rocker set-up. will a 24v connecting rod bolt right to a 12v crank? or will I need more machining?

 

sorry, what i mean is the lobes are different than a 12 valve. (typing before I thank) you can use a 12 valve cam (they seem to work better) but you will have to use the 24 valve lifters
not sure on the pistons, I can look it up, just need ESN#(there is a difference in the pistons, i found a ESN # and looked it up, so you will have to use a 24v piston.

for con rods, not sure why people are buying into a stronger rod, the standard rods Are forged from an I beam, I have watched this process with my own eyes, my opinion on the rods, there is no better ones out there. as for 24 valve rods, had no idea that they made separate rods for 12 and 24 that I have seen, maybe dodge did,(not sure) but all parts still come out of the Cummins certified factory's.

as for machining, not understanding the question.

bolt patterns for a 12 and 24 valve are the same.

for the crank on the 24 valve they had a extra sprocket gear , that was like the years 99 to 2003 but some of those years didn't have those cranks, that was only for the crank sensor. i will get a list of what is different from the 12 and 24 and post it.

Ok , I just found out that there is one con rod that is different, it is the common rail rod , they are powdered milled rods, they are having problems with them because they are weak rods, the old 12 valve rods are still stronger, so I would stick with 12 valve rods

 

Sorry, As for machining the question will a 12v rod bolt to a 24v crank?

 

Should bolt right up. You might want to consider having the rotating assembly sent out for balancing though.

 

I believe that I read somewhere that the stock bottom end is good up to 1000HP. Now, whether or not that is with a girdle, I'm not sure. If I were going for 1000HP, I would probably girdle it just to be safe.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

 

i wouldnt trust that 1000hp is alot of power i am pretty maxed out at 810

 

If I was going into the motor for any thing I would girdle the bottom end. Cap walk is nothing to mess with and overbuilding the bottom end is always a good idea.

 

I wish I had put a girdle in when I studed my bottom end Would have if I had the money at the time

 

We make choices like that when we build stuff.....I know there are things I woulf have done different on my Duster....

 

not sure about power, but there are different crank caps for the marine, they look to be made of some hard rubber or silicone, trying to see if anyone knows about these things.

I have been told that they handle more horse power and kinda resembles putting on the griddle without having one, not sure, any boat diesel guys who can chime in?