i foundout yesterday when i went and paid for it that the motor has 235,007 miles do yall think i should go a head and rebuild it while its out or should it have another 100,000+ miles before i should have to do anything.

also as much as i would like to throw every bomb that i can on/in it while its out i cant cuz i dont have that much money so is there anything that i should fixor look for while its out, ie. the killer dowel pin(not sure if all 12v's had it or just certain years) if so what/where are they and how do i fix'em?

 

all 12 valves have that problem. Did I email you back? I was wasted for a couple days straight and had 3 people asking about it and got mixed up.
On the rebuild, the motor should still be good, but if you have the money to overhaul it, it wouldn't be a bad idea. You could compression test it too.
Once you get it in the truck, get the timing set again, the P pump looses timing over time and it'll save you some trouble, I spent about a month trying to get mine running right until I learned about that.

Here's a good writeup for the KDP:
https://www.dieselbombers.com/cummin...l-pin-fix.html

 

^^^^^ no you never replied.
thanks for the link and all the help.

 

My dad's 97 was rebuilt at 250k because the turbo twisted the shaft off. THe bearings looked pretty damned good an the cylinder walls still had the cross hatching in them. Just do a compression test and if everything checks out run it.

And like FastCR said I would check and probably bumb the timing up a bit while its out. I mean if your going to bomb it your gonna do it anyways. Might as well do it while its easy to get to.

 

The KDP is also an issue for 24V trucks as well.


More KDP stuff - there is 2 porcedures - 1 involves making a tab to retain the pin and another involved using a jig to drill the timing case and using a set screw (I believe) to retain the pin. Both can be seen here:

Ram Diesel KDP retainer

Ram Diesel KDP retainer

 

anybody know where i can get a wiring diagram for my swap?
i got the motor yesterday and its got all the wires and i got the ecm i believe (the silverbox behind the pass. fender) anyways i need to know which wires to keep and which ones to discard.

thanks for all the help guys

 

haynes manual.

Keep that biatch. Then you don't have to afro the voltage regulator and grid heater.

 

ok thats what i thought didnt know if haynes or chilton would be better.

 

From my experience the haynes has a lot more complete wiring diagrams in it.

 

haynes aint worth a damn compaired to a ram truck factory service manual. the hains book is a childs book compaired to this novel, get the cd version off ebay for $30 or paper back for $100