Wheel Hub Bluessss???
spoken
#42
02-10-2009, 02:23 PM
#43
02-10-2009, 03:34 PM
Diesel Bomber
#44
02-10-2009, 03:41 PM
#45
02-10-2009, 05:23 PM
#46
02-10-2009, 05:35 PM
Diesel Bomber
#47
02-11-2009, 12:44 AM
Diesel Bomber
until you got to replace them next year........i had a set go bad on my 95 V10 truck and now i got one bad on my 96 Cummins........seen too many go bad and changed too many not to do the conversion........you guys will learn........alot of the times its just easier to spend the money and do it right the first time.......
#48
02-11-2009, 04:55 AM
hubs 215.00
215.00
seals 10.00
10.00
rotors 50.00
50.00
total 550.00 for nongreasable stock parts.......
now lets break down the EMS kit......
rotors 100 total
seals 10 total
bearings 100 total
210 for parts that can be pulled apart and greased.........
also including
lockouts 185
35 spline outers 250 guesstimate
new spindles 150 guesstimate
sounds like a free spin hub kit wins to me........
Last edited by LOGANSTANFORTH; 02-11-2009 at 05:45 AM.
#49
02-16-2009, 03:03 PM
There is a very easy way to remove the wheel bearing on a 4X4 (without ABS tone ring).
Loosen axle nut and lug nuts (do not remove yet) with truck on the ground. Keep axle nut snug.
Raise up front end (both wheels) and block rear wheels. Remove lug nuts and wheel, do not remove axle nut yet.
Disconnect and hang the caliper out of the way.
Spray some penetrating oil around hub and wheel bearing.
Loosen up all 4 of the 12 point bolts on the back of the wheel bearing assembly most of the way, but do not remove.
For the left hand (driver's hub), start up the truck and turn the wheels all the way to the right. Then using a socket slightly larger than the 12 point bolt and a short/medium socket extension place the socket over the 12 point bolt and wedge the end of the extension against the end of the axle/spindle assembly. Have a helper slowly turn the wheel to the left. This will effectively "press" the bearing out in one piece. You may have to "stack" two sockets together and do the same on the front of the bearing to press it out evenly. It will make a clear "pop" when it lets go.
Loosen the axle nut and support the axle with some rags to keep from boogering up the axle seal.
When reassembling smear some anti-seize on the mating surfaces of the bearing assembly.
No more pounding, ruined sockets, cut rotors and will save a bearing if you're just doing the u-joints. Don't do this on trucks with a tone ring for the ABS as it can break it.
Loosen axle nut and lug nuts (do not remove yet) with truck on the ground. Keep axle nut snug.
Raise up front end (both wheels) and block rear wheels. Remove lug nuts and wheel, do not remove axle nut yet.
Disconnect and hang the caliper out of the way.
Spray some penetrating oil around hub and wheel bearing.
Loosen up all 4 of the 12 point bolts on the back of the wheel bearing assembly most of the way, but do not remove.
For the left hand (driver's hub), start up the truck and turn the wheels all the way to the right. Then using a socket slightly larger than the 12 point bolt and a short/medium socket extension place the socket over the 12 point bolt and wedge the end of the extension against the end of the axle/spindle assembly. Have a helper slowly turn the wheel to the left. This will effectively "press" the bearing out in one piece. You may have to "stack" two sockets together and do the same on the front of the bearing to press it out evenly. It will make a clear "pop" when it lets go.
Loosen the axle nut and support the axle with some rags to keep from boogering up the axle seal.
When reassembling smear some anti-seize on the mating surfaces of the bearing assembly.
No more pounding, ruined sockets, cut rotors and will save a bearing if you're just doing the u-joints. Don't do this on trucks with a tone ring for the ABS as it can break it.
#50
02-16-2009, 07:14 PM
Diesel Wrench
