96 ram 2500 12 valve . I am in my 3rd switch in the last 4 or 5 years . Anyone else have this problem ? I think it may be common because when you try to buy the switch it comes with a new plug and wiring . Mine has heated up on the same connector repeatedly .

 

It's a common issue, and the beefed up wiring is a bandaid at best. The only solution is to add relays to the harness so all the power isn't going through the switch. LMC truck sells a plug and play harness that does the job, but the quality disappointing. It would be simple enough to have one made though.

 

If you are only losing the switch you are doing good. The '98 2500 at work took out the the under the dash harness harness after we did our first replacement. It wasn't pretty.

 

I had the same problem until I wired in a pair of relays, they're pretty simple to install.

*Remove the driver's side battery and battery tray.
*Open up the flex loom and find the high and low beam power wires and cut them.
*Install two (2) 30A relays with holders. (I screwed them to the inner fender behind the driver's side headlight)
*Run two (2) fuse holders with 30A fuses from the battery to the relays power supply wires.
*Connect the low beam power wire coming from the headlight switch to one of the relays trigger wires.
*Connect the high beam power wire coming from the headlight switch to the other relays trigger wire.
*Connect the output power wire of the low beam relay to the low beam power wire going to the headlights.
*Connect the output power wire of the high beam relay to the high beam power wire going to the headlights.
*Reinstall battery tray and battery.
*Test headlights for proper function.

I prefer to use the Bosch style relays, like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C0S...G11FZ51AQQZ6VB



Some people don't want to cut the factory wiring and that's fine. Personally I have no issues with it as long as it's done right. I prefer to solder all connections and use the appropriate sized heat shrink tubing for a nice quality seal.

On a side note, I measured the voltage going to my headlights before adding the relays and got a reading of just over 7v. After the relays it jumped to over 12v, both readings taken with the truck off. Obviously my headlights are MUCH brighter now and my switch problems are gone.

 

Does anyone know,
1998.5 Ram 2500 4x4 5sp.
The previous owner cut the wiring harness for the trailer brakes and lights to install a trailer brake control box which no longer works. I can not see the wiring harness plugs behind the headlight switch. Does anyone know?

Is the trailer wiring hard wired into the Headlight Switch or is it connected by a plug into the Headlight Switch?

I have looked myself but my seventy- year- old eyes just don't focus like when I was a young man

 

I finally found the correct Harness, I did not know the proper name of the Harness until today.
The Harness was on Amazon.com "Dodge Ram Trailer Electric Brake Box Wiring Kit Mopar possibly this information will help someone out.