So im looking for a turbo that i could use with mods listed in my signature. I was looking at a borg warner s360 or s363. Wich one would be best, it is a daily driver and hauls occasionaly and is going to pull this summer. So could i put a s363 on with just the fuel upgrades i have or would i not be able to spin it efficently. Also would i need studs or could i get by for a little while without them. What kind of hp/tq numbers could i excpect, thanks for your help and time.

 

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I personally would go with the 63 as it will give you more room to grow. As for power probably around 400 or so. Depends how your tuning is. Smoke isnt power. Your planning on going with a box s363/68 with the .9 t4 housing? Or what? No you won't need studs as your boost and dp will likely decrease since its a mostly stock truck. But I personally always recommend them if you ever have plans for timing or more boost etc. Finally Id suggest a 4gsk it will help take full advantage of the fuel avalible. And yes you will be able to spin it, might be a bit laggy in t4 but you will have lots of room to grow.

 

Mods on the truck are 0 fuel plate, star wheel, 191's, boost elbow 3k gsk exhuast intake etc. I have the 3k and 4k kit but i chose to do the 3k because people were saying the 4k makes throttle really touchy, would it be worth putting in the 4k though? The turbo i was thinking of getting is in link below, im newer to this so i dont know all the specs on turbos. Im trying to eliminate heat and smoke with a diffrent turbo, personally i hate smokey trucks. But i plan on studs eventually and a 125gph fass pump. I dont really want to do injectors because my tourque converters rated at 850ft lbs of tq. well not until next year at least. I was thinking of sac 7x.012 from cpp if i did do them.

BORG WARNER S363 177283T

 

Firstly yes the 4gsk is worth it forsure. It's really not touched. Not in autos anyways, standard is pretty touchy. You will need valve springs so at that point head work and studs is a worth while investment. As for the turbo size you would be fine to run it with that fuel and get good power and have room for injectors and timing and such. The only down side is that exhaust housing is laggy and you will need a t4 manifold or a adapter. It would be more useful to get a t3 wastegated version that would bolt right up and not be laggy and you won't need to buy an ext wastegate down the road when you have fuel

 

This might be a stupid question but do i need a waste gate i have a boost gauge and i like the idea of $670 vs $1500. If i went with something with a waste gate though this would probably be my next option, would it be worth the extra $800? Which would be better 12 or 14cm housing? Thanks for your time and help i really appreciate it.

Cummins Performance Parts CPP Turbochargers

 

Short answer no you don't. You can control final boost with the fuel plate basically. X amount of fuel can only product X amount of boost. But once you do injectors, timing, things you can begin to over spin the turbo and then you'd need to add a wastegate or tune it back/ limit the power. So the t3 housing with a wastegate is worth it potentially. Especially since it seem like you have fairly mild and standard goals for the truck. You will have fast spool and an adjustable wastgate. Because with the t4, your again gonna need to buy an adapter. And at the least you will have to get the .91 housing which will be a little laggy until you have injectors/ timing. and tune it very well, and the .83 housing is hard to come by and down the road your potentially need to buy a ext gate and that's about 500 aswell. Look at a company called smeding, they have lots of good options and even different t4 housings at no additional cost.

 

Sorry I was thinking of their s400's that are no charge for housing change http://www.smedingdiesel.com/product-p/177283.htm that's an unwastegated one with a .91, 360 bearing and machined for a hx40 down pipe. They even sell the .83 and The .80 gated housing if you wanted it. Then you can build it yourself. Just swap over the housing from the standard .88 to the .83 or the .80 gated t3.

 

So would i want the marmon downpipe flange or would i want hx40? I know i have to buy diffrent down pipe for the hx40 but would i for the marmon as well? What is the 360 thrust bearing. Is it worth the extra $175?

 

The hx flange is the easiest from what I imagine. As you just buy the hx40 dp and its a direct fit. The Marmon flange is just the standard flange. I don't think they make a dodge specific downpipe that had a marmon flange. The marmon flange is more for custom dp's where the path is custom anyways. Since it's going stock location the hx40 would be a direct bolt on and then connect it to your current exhaust or get the system you want at that point. 360 is kind of a preference. Also potentially a bit more reliable for more extreme duty uses. Nitrous/ sled pulling/ lots of drag racing and lots of towing. For a dd/ toy/ light hauler its not totally necessary. If you have the money it's likely worth it. Also if it ever wears out you can just upgrade then.