I've posted on here about what I was told was a fuel leak, or bad injectors typical air in fuel or bad timing. After replacing my entire fuel system. The white smoke and sputtering still exists when the truck is in park. None of them were the culprit. After New fuel lines,OFV, injectors, fuel filter head and filter, lift pump. sealing washers and timing set at 15*. Still white smoke without load over 1500 rpms. I do not get any white smoke at Idle and starts instantly cold or not with no hesitation with no smoke. warmed up or cold it is the same thing. I finally ran it on the computer and got a p0113 code which states the IAT or intake air temp was high or low. The guy at O Reilly said it was sucking air somewhere, so i checked for boost leaks and have none.Looked up other IAT problems which stated with trucks with an exhaust brake need to clean it because the exhaust backing up into the manifold and getting it all carboned up. Took out the sensor cleaned it with Mass air sensor cleaner and still nothing different. The sensor looked brand new and was barely even dirty.Just checked it again on the computer today and the code is gone after cleaning the sensor and while I was there at o reilys did a radiator pressure test and it was dropping 1 psi / a min @ 30 psi so doesn't seem like a head gasket either. MY truck is a 1997 with an auto. 5X.012 injectors raptor lift pump banks twin ram intake manifold banks fuel plate and banks quick turbo /w wastegate. Pacbrake vaccum exhaust brake with 60 lbs springs and 4 inch straight pipe. Posi lock, torq loc and a 35 psi OFV. I have a tranny temp egt and psi guage. My fuel pressure sits at bout 30-40 psi It cracks when i take off the banjo bolts so it is air tight. When i start giving it some in Park its black then as i hit about 1500-1700 it turns to pure white. While driving I get grey smoke with load in the higher rps. I've had this problem for two or three years and have posted multipul threads with no new information or ideas. My egt's at 65 mph and 2k rps are 600-650 I can make about 30-35 psi boost flooring it and my tranny temp sits at 130-150 always. I will post a video of my truck on youtube of the white smoke and set up if no one has any ideas. I commute 100 miles a day 5 days a week for the last 6 years of my life and i am only 24 years old. The cost is 20$ a day at 3.50 per gallon @ 100 miles i get 17 mpg. OK but not great, its the white smoke that just gives me this crazy anxiety like my baby is sick. It needs to get fixed. Thanks. Also the Fuel shut of soleinoid is at the correct movement distance and working correctly with a new relay. Truck has 206,000 miles. Changed oil within 500 miles and just cleaned the K and N drop in filter in the stock box.

 

For the problems with white smoke it seems to have no negitive effect on my truck as it drives about the same as when I got it 3-4 years ago @ 150,000 miles. I have not messed with the fuel plate, star wheel is maybe two turns from being completely compressed and idles at 850-900 in park and 750 in drive with a/c on. I've been going for my bachelors in biology and you would think i am a diesel mechanic by how much time i spend playing with this truck. My fiance hates it when i talk about my other baby but this truck has gotten me my associates and never left me stranded but one time when the starter when bad in those three years i have been going to school. IT deserves to blow nothing but BLACK coal not BS white smoke.

 

Turn the starwheel back. Back it off. Back it off. The smoke will go away.

 

So not as much compressing the spring? maybe in the middle more? I fully compressed it and moved back a full turn and then another and thought it made very little difference. Before that I turned it all the way out where the spring just barely was touching the star wheel and it was like a train when I got on it. Solid black smoke and alot of it. So somewhere in the middle your saying will cure the preboost white smoke in park along with darking up that grey smoke in drive? Thanks for the quick reply Dieselguy.

 

You need to play with the start wheel. Right now it is adjusted to bring on fuel to fast and you are actually putting out the flame. Has the smoke been played with? This can also add to the effect. The 7100 series pump are great and can make a ton of power with minimal smoke output when tuned properly. If you go to the tech articles for your truck you will find numerous threads on pump tuning. Learn it, love it. Once you figure it out you will be much happier.

 

I have raised the idle and set the timing myself but other then just the star wheel I have not messed with the screw in back for large changes to pre boost and I haven't even looked at the fuel plate I know it's all the way back to the cab and either stock or a banks plate.It has a headless screw with a c washer under it so you can take it off with a screw driver but I know this increases horse power too and I want my tranny to last another 25-50k miles. The screw alone went from train to a puff when I'm getting on it slight haze up a grade where its set now and still sputtered white in park.largeer injectors without fueling increased at the plate cause improper burn? I feel like its burning rich but it seems that would make the problem worse? It seems to go against my logic at leased but I haven't fixed the problem so I will try tinkering with it and report back

 

Where is the timing set? And does it pop at a steady rpm with no load, or is it only when you stuff the pedal down in park. That makes a large difference. I just assumed you meant stuffing the pedal down, but if it just being held at a steady it's a whole different issue. It could be a bad dv, could have an issue further internally in the pump, could even be a bad injector.
So when does this happen and how.

 

TIMING SLIP .. retared timing ..

 

I wouldn't think larger injectors would make sense with the plate all the way back, especially if it could be a stock plate. Hell, Dodge didn't even put it all the way back. Seems to me that's just plain not enough fuel to feed larger injectors, especially with that turbo and intake, but I wouldn't really know. I've just never heard of anyone running with the plate full backward.

 

The dealership I bought it from put the plate and star wheel in the most conservative positions to pass Emissions. I moved the star wheel to about 5 different setting and ended up working best with the starwheel roughtly in the middle.. Not a train but dark black not grey. This fixed my running with load to black smoke and added little bit more of it. But the in park smoke is still white after i get around 1800 rps. Do you think I should Pull the plate and see if it is stock or banks and then try putting it roughly a bit more forward? Timing is not slipped. When it was slipped before I changed it It hazed white and would put out white smoke with load. It does not haze or even put out white smoke unless i am in park giving it a good 50-75% throttle. I am thinking the pressure to the injectors is the same as the stock ones since I have not increased fueling after the IP only to it.Would that cause the injectors to drip rather then spray without the increased pressure through out fueling?( plate) The only reason I have not repositioned the plate is my fear of my transmission going. The Transmission is obviously upgraded or rebuilt as I have never heard of a stock transmission not slipping at all after 200k miles I got the truck at 150,000 and i think that is when the dealer put a new or rebuilt one in.It still shifts like new, But I have not taken a look to see whats all done to it. I am guessing if anything a upgraded torque converter in a rebuilt transmission, maybe an upgraded valve body. All I know is it has a deep pan. Will this be enough If it is just the stock plate to move it a bit forward? Or will i need to find out if it has a billet input shaft too? if i move it forward? Anyone know tricks to find out whats been done to the transmission? I would assume you could see the valve body if you just looked in the little rectangular port. But for an input shaft or torque converter you would need to drop the transmission to actually see?