Oil through vent tube...
heheh I was eying up a steering box stabilizer bar the other day, and I can get it in this awesome red powdercoat finish.
then I realized that within moments it'd be red with black streaks anyway.
then I realized that within moments it'd be red with black streaks anyway.
I tried the colored parts thing once, now I just stick to black.. All my colored parts are black now anyway!.
The second time I had an injector hang open it decided that #6 injector wanted to be able to look at my con-Rod through a peice of aluminum. And it did
It got a lot tougher time getting through ceramic!
The second time I had an injector hang open it decided that #6 injector wanted to be able to look at my con-Rod through a peice of aluminum. And it did

It got a lot tougher time getting through ceramic!
haha ya mine wont rust either, but my oil never goes up nor is it diluted so i don't think its a injector problem. i have herd places where people put a small air breather/filter on the filler cap to help it breath more
meh. the vent tube is well below everything else.
besides, it's the least of my leaks.
I really wish someone made a steel/iron timing case for these things. Cause ya get it all sealed up, and have to start the truck and run it on one of those -40 days we get in the winter, and the aluminum heats up differently than the iron block and it's all f***ed in that one day again anyway.
besides, it's the least of my leaks.
I really wish someone made a steel/iron timing case for these things. Cause ya get it all sealed up, and have to start the truck and run it on one of those -40 days we get in the winter, and the aluminum heats up differently than the iron block and it's all f***ed in that one day again anyway.
Slim I do not have the same issues as far as -40° days go it is not quite get that cold here. Majority of the seals in my engine do not leak near like some that I have seen
But majority of them are also quite new
But majority of them are also quite new
mine are all new. minus the oil pan.
cover, case, pump o ring, vac pump gasket, PS pump gasket, tappet cover. . . yep.
I didn't locktite the case bolts. I figure they backed off some since it did seal up fairly well and since then has gotten worse again.
So when I have the 200 bucks lying around I'm gonna get the seal kit again and do the job again.
and it'll be fine until a cold day.
someday when I have large amounts of money I'll go to a machine shop and get a steel timing case CNC'd
cover, case, pump o ring, vac pump gasket, PS pump gasket, tappet cover. . . yep.
I didn't locktite the case bolts. I figure they backed off some since it did seal up fairly well and since then has gotten worse again.
So when I have the 200 bucks lying around I'm gonna get the seal kit again and do the job again.
and it'll be fine until a cold day.

someday when I have large amounts of money I'll go to a machine shop and get a steel timing case CNC'd
A leaking vacuum pump or vac line will also cause more blow by because the vacuum pump exhausts into the crank case. Higher engine RPM = higher vac pump RPM = more air being pumped into the crankcase. Just something else to check.
Good point!



