And so it begins
#21
I hear you. I honestly believe after speaking with a couple guys running the bolts and reading a ton of post from others that given my goals I will be fine with these. I mean let's be honest there is no 100% even with studs but I do not plan on going too crazy and half the guys tried to convince me to leave the stock bolts and just retorque them if I was stay at or below 50 PSI
#22
With bolts, Your going to want to stay below 40 psi ( if your running the stock turbo) anything past 30 pis is just hot air and your loosing power ( unless your going with a better turbo ..
Do not adjust timing much if your going to surpass the 30 psi as well ..
Just FYI , Before getting into the power your going to want to make sure that the Engine and T-stat are open or have opened 2 times, Due to vaporizing Coolant and causing the high pressure coolant spike behind the T-stat ... 9This is how I poped my HG) ...
Do not adjust timing much if your going to surpass the 30 psi as well ..
Just FYI , Before getting into the power your going to want to make sure that the Engine and T-stat are open or have opened 2 times, Due to vaporizing Coolant and causing the high pressure coolant spike behind the T-stat ... 9This is how I poped my HG) ...
#24
#26
something like 170k tensile strength were as a stock head bolt is like 150k a standard ARP is like 190k and new age are like 220k a stock head bolt is 11.2mm where as all the aftermarket stuff is 12 or 14mm. I expect this truck to be in the mid 500's next week when it gets put on the dyno again.
#27
And You'll need to re-machin the head, change oil if it goes into the pan, possibly destroying your bearings .. ( Glycol will eat bearings ... in case you didnt know that ) .. could score the crank shaft, if that happens, you will need to have block line honed, re-size the rods, might as well hone cylinders too ....
YA see where this is a dangerous idea from the Begining ??
You posted here wanting "Sound" advise .... I saying .... Your Either going to eat an engine and waste your money on the process, Or Get smart and realize, That I and manny others have been there and done that and dont want to see another guy have to go through the $4-5K that we have had to spend due to our not listning to those who have been there as Well..
Seroiusly, If you waste your money on bolts... Expect that you will have the same experience that manny of us are in and have had ..
Here is a few pics (Series 60 ) ... Just a small amount of Carnage, this all due to a leaky Oil Cooler ... This can easily be YOUR Crankshaft .... Any Idea how much one of those costs ????
94 98 Dodge RAM Cummins 6BT 5 9L 12 Valve Crankshaft Crank | eBay
This Is the cheepest one I could find ...
If you decide to go bolts.. stay off the boost till you get studs ..... your playing roulette with your wallet ...
YA see where this is a dangerous idea from the Begining ??
You posted here wanting "Sound" advise .... I saying .... Your Either going to eat an engine and waste your money on the process, Or Get smart and realize, That I and manny others have been there and done that and dont want to see another guy have to go through the $4-5K that we have had to spend due to our not listning to those who have been there as Well..
Seroiusly, If you waste your money on bolts... Expect that you will have the same experience that manny of us are in and have had ..
Here is a few pics (Series 60 ) ... Just a small amount of Carnage, this all due to a leaky Oil Cooler ... This can easily be YOUR Crankshaft .... Any Idea how much one of those costs ????
94 98 Dodge RAM Cummins 6BT 5 9L 12 Valve Crankshaft Crank | eBay
This Is the cheepest one I could find ...
If you decide to go bolts.. stay off the boost till you get studs ..... your playing roulette with your wallet ...
hasnt your truck had the same blown head gasket for a year or so now?
#28
YUP ...
Hence I'm warning the new guys, save your money now, or spend it on what you dont want to be spending it on ... Unless they would like to just Blow It Up ... Best to be warned ...
I wasnt really warned that these engines were so prone to HG failures .. now that I am Informed .. everyone should be informed ( there are those who dont care of course ) ...
Now I have spent about 3500 in poarts to un do what I have done to my engine ... SOOO, I like to inform .
Hence I'm warning the new guys, save your money now, or spend it on what you dont want to be spending it on ... Unless they would like to just Blow It Up ... Best to be warned ...
I wasnt really warned that these engines were so prone to HG failures .. now that I am Informed .. everyone should be informed ( there are those who dont care of course ) ...
Now I have spent about 3500 in poarts to un do what I have done to my engine ... SOOO, I like to inform .
#29
Everything I have read on the Mighty Bolts is showing very good promise. Many people have suggested they will easily hold to the 80PSI mark and unless you are surpassing this, there is no real need for Studs. I am by no means an expert and I am not trying to instigate anything, but I am more than happy to go this route and see how it holds to the planned 40-45 PSI I will be throwing at her . If I am wrong I will be the first to admit it so that any that wish can say I told you so. My point on Studs is much the same as I try and tell my guys at work that think when they have their kevlar gloved on for handling metal shavings that they are totally safe. Nothing is 100% and I have read more than a few posts about APR's failing. That being said I am sure much of that is either improper install or as 4x4 mentioned earlier, not letting the poor truck warm up properly before letting her loose.
#30
and not re-torquing as well .. bolts are a 1 time use in most cases, where studs are re-usable also ... but either way, if the bolts are cheeper and they will do the job, Pleaase do tell me if I , or anyone else here is wrong - I am always willing to learn , just hate doing it on my dollar if ya know what I mean ..