1996 cummins blowby
#21
#22
X2. I've read that some block decks "frown" over time, but I've never seen it, and I've been around a little while.
#23
Yea someone got taken for a ride there. Pulled literally hundreds of heads and never once found a block issue with a straight edge. Had one get so hot it locked up and scored the walls heavily....deck was perfect! Even if it was it's not a big job to fix! Seen blocks decked for performance reasons and seem some decked for pitting but never a big one like these for a "warp".
Maybe a touch of a frown in a couple cases but never a reman type of situation!
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
Maybe a touch of a frown in a couple cases but never a reman type of situation!
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
#24
#25
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#27
.. 9 thousandths is actually not too bad ... i have seen N14's at nearly double that ... still runnin years later ...
get the block decked , mill the head, use a thicker copper under the injector to correct spray depth and you should be just fine ... do a coolant bypass while your at it... will keep the head more evenly heated and will keep ya from vaporizing the coolant in the head ... drill a couple of small holes in T-stat as well .. helps minimize back pressure over all and will aid in heating up the bulb in the stat ... been doing that for years not ... to all of them
get the block decked , mill the head, use a thicker copper under the injector to correct spray depth and you should be just fine ... do a coolant bypass while your at it... will keep the head more evenly heated and will keep ya from vaporizing the coolant in the head ... drill a couple of small holes in T-stat as well .. helps minimize back pressure over all and will aid in heating up the bulb in the stat ... been doing that for years not ... to all of them
#28
.. 9 thousandths is actually not too bad ... i have seen N14's at nearly double that ... still runnin years later ...
get the block decked , mill the head, use a thicker copper under the injector to correct spray depth and you should be just fine ... do a coolant bypass while your at it... will keep the head more evenly heated and will keep ya from vaporizing the coolant in the head ... drill a couple of small holes in T-stat as well .. helps minimize back pressure over all and will aid in heating up the bulb in the stat ... been doing that for years not ... to all of them
get the block decked , mill the head, use a thicker copper under the injector to correct spray depth and you should be just fine ... do a coolant bypass while your at it... will keep the head more evenly heated and will keep ya from vaporizing the coolant in the head ... drill a couple of small holes in T-stat as well .. helps minimize back pressure over all and will aid in heating up the bulb in the stat ... been doing that for years not ... to all of them
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#29
#30
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
.. 9 thousandths is actually not too bad ... i have seen N14's at nearly double that ... still runnin years later ...
get the block decked , mill the head, use a thicker copper under the injector to correct spray depth and you should be just fine ... do a coolant bypass while your at it... will keep the head more evenly heated and will keep ya from vaporizing the coolant in the head ... drill a couple of small holes in T-stat as well .. helps minimize back pressure over all and will aid in heating up the bulb in the stat ... been doing that for years not ... to all of them
get the block decked , mill the head, use a thicker copper under the injector to correct spray depth and you should be just fine ... do a coolant bypass while your at it... will keep the head more evenly heated and will keep ya from vaporizing the coolant in the head ... drill a couple of small holes in T-stat as well .. helps minimize back pressure over all and will aid in heating up the bulb in the stat ... been doing that for years not ... to all of them
Last edited by cummins Pride; 03-20-2014 at 12:15 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost