12 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 94-98 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with P7100 Injection Pumps

Bad Mpg 97 auto

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  #21  
Old 11-04-2013, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 4x4manonbroke
just make sure you go to Ebay and grab a set of ARP head studs ... just got mine for $417.99 from E-bay .... gonna make this thing fly ...
support your sponsors. we price match most items/
 
  #22  
Old 11-04-2013, 03:37 PM
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call Source Automotive there in Clackamas ...... Rip and the guys are geat and the work is solid .... the also have one of the best dyno's around..
 
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  #23  
Old 11-04-2013, 08:27 PM
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Clackamas is like two and a half hours away from me here, so if I cannot find any shops around here ill go hit them up.I would rather have it done right and spend 50-100 bucks in gas extra to make that 400-500 mile trip there and back. So new problem with these injectors. All seem to be fine but 1 is leaking. the number 4 injector, from the front.It is leaking from the body or the top feed line, i didn't cross thread the top of the injector and i didn't under torque the injector nut. Started at 44. Only one is leaking so i took off the lines and took the nut off and the threads are perfect on the injector, nut and the feed line. Re-torqued to 44 put the line back on and still leaking fuel. both the copper washer on the return line is good, and the one on the tip was stuck with a bit of petroleum jelly to hold it in place. The leak is on the injector above the return line and is leaking down the side of the block.... It is also causing my truck to die in 3rd gear or higher when braking. the idle drops and cuts out. But it is fine if i use gear 1/2 and then D when in 3-5 but This is not gonna be a everyday thing for me. So any advice, of course i sent my cores back today so no switcharoo tests either with any of the old injectors. Not a boost leak either got my gaskets made for the manifold to heater grid and it is holding boost 30-35 psi, just when it slow down, brake or let off the diesel it makes a horrible noise like its starving rps and goes from 750-850 idle and then lugs down to 500 and spudders a bit and dies unless i pop it into first gear. But the best news is even with one of these new injectors leaking a bit, I am still getting as good mpgs before i switched the injectors and these add 90 hp(5X.012) so it might be a 2-3 gain. My next step is gonna be using some thread tape and see if I can mend it, then if it stops i know its the lines but if the body is leaking it should still leak even with some pipe tape any o rings in the lines or is it all compression? Feeling pretty unlucky lately! Any advice appreciated, gonna work on it tomorrow early in the morning as soon as the sun gives me enough light.
 
  #24  
Old 11-04-2013, 09:02 PM
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Sounds like a small crack in the buld where the line seals to the injector ... know what i'm sayin ... u might try some teflon tape ... make sure you seat the bulkb and don get any thing into the INJ... other wise your gonna have bigger problems ... can yo ucall them for a replacment inj ?

Wish you were closer I would totally come down and help out ...
 
  #25  
Old 11-04-2013, 09:17 PM
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thread tape on injection lines? put your tools down have a piece of candy than take a good nap.

a return leak will not cause the issues you are having in the gears.

an external leak can be because of 4 things.
1. a cracked body. (ive never seen this)
2. a cracked injector end. this will cause uneven pressure fron the body to disk to nozzle and will cause an external leak at the fracture. this leak will be below the larger nut you tightened to 44 ft lbs. this failure does happen but is normally caught. it is common to break these ends on old injectors that are being rebuild.
3. a poor return surface on the body of the injector. this is very common due to improper removal of the injector. (vice grips) the threads can be damaged inside the injector not allowing the banjo bolt to fully seat the copper seal. however if you have new bodies chances are there is no defect in this area of the injector. i would inspect the copper itself.
4. inproperly tightened injection line or damage to the area vie threads or cracked injection line or nut. this happens more so than 1 and 2 but i see more failures with #3.

what i see most often is #3 sometimes it is a royal pain getting the copper return gaskets to seal. if this is where yours is leaking i would recommend installing dyna seals on the effected return line. a dyna seal is a rubber and steal washer that seals similiar to the coppers. they are used on many fuel injection applications.

a picture of the affected area would be nice.

Greg
 
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  #26  
Old 11-04-2013, 10:13 PM
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Yeah Tacoma is a ways away, that is like 6-8 hour drive here! I will call in for a replacement when i am positive its not me overlooking something on my end. And where the fuel trail is on the injector manonbroke is what i think too. But I hate holding a flashlight and trying to sit over my truck while torqin stuff down so ill start tommorrow this is turning into a sick obsession says my girlfriend. I removed the injector with a SAC 9/16 bolt on top of a washer and 3/4 inch pvc pipe cut at a bit under an inch worked like a charm and i looked over the threads well they were perfect. but I will recheck the injector and look and see if its got a crack in it, I didn't notice anything falling apart but a small crack might of gone unnoticed ill take a closer look and ill recheck all of the lines to the pump on the leaky one to make sure its not just a small crack right above the injector on the line, and check the copper on that injector and make sure i might flip it around on the return just to make sure its on right. It might be injector 3 but i think its #4, I can definitely take a picture tomorrow and post it if I don't figure it out. Thanks for the help Manonbroke and Greg! Gave me plenty of ideas to hopefully fix this so I can do some timing and finally see 20 mpg or better!
 
  #27  
Old 11-05-2013, 05:24 AM
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good luck i get 15mpg
 
  #28  
Old 11-05-2013, 05:16 PM
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Ok so took off the return banjo nut and the orifice looked like an oval and slightly bent so I must of over tightend it and or this could be why I had white smoke in the first place beacuse it was on the old injectors. The same one was leaking before but it was misting this time all over the injector. Got two new bolts, one for a spare at a new place I found in bend oregon for 5 bucks a bolt! Beats 45 plus shipping on the websites for all 6! Ill be installing tommorrow morning and give an update! Gonna do timing even if it fixes most the white smoke just for economy hopefully this bolt is the last problem with fueling system as everything but the higher pressure lines and return lines are brand new and I know ip is fine! Sorry for spelling and grammar using my phone.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Really only 15? What's done to your truck Greg? Any problems? Or just what it is? Also I drive only highway I commute 80 or so miles a day for school.but 96% is highway that is my highest bill right now is fuel.
 

Last edited by mattshow123; 11-05-2013 at 05:16 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #29  
Old 11-05-2013, 06:25 PM
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lots... truck hasnt been on the dyno since it broke 500hp. but ive owned the truck since bone stock and the best it has ever gotten hand calculated has 16.2
 
  #30  
Old 11-05-2013, 08:17 PM
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wow .. .i drive in the city 90% and my last tank was 17.92 mpg ..... something wrong with those #'s ..... my buddy has 3.55's and he averages 17-18 city and 26 freeway to Idaho .... my best yet is 21.4 mpg with 4.10's ...
 


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