12 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 94-98 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with P7100 Injection Pumps

Bad Mpg 97 auto

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  #11  
Old 10-27-2013, 04:33 AM
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Awesome thanks turbo2332! Ill update when they are replaced and how it effects the smoke and mpgs.
 
  #12  
Old 10-30-2013, 05:28 PM
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Were you able to place an order with us? We have 20+ sets already built up for your year of truck.
 
  #13  
Old 10-30-2013, 09:03 PM
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Yes sir got a set of the SAC 94-98 5X.012. 590$ with install kit under Matt shipped to Oregon! Got free 7 day shipping that somehow changed to 3 day! Checked the bill and there was no extra change either! Super excited to put them on this weekend. ManonBroke you said something about valve and it didnt click with me to tell today.. That I have been hearing a clicking and I think your right, I think the guy who owned this truck last who installed the pac brake might of already put on 60 pound springs with the wrong clearance. and the rocker arms are taping when i rev it up and the higher the rev the higher the tapping gets in or out of gear.

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150$ core return too forgot to add that unlike the after market so 440$ total.
 

Last edited by mattshow123; 10-30-2013 at 09:04 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #14  
Old 10-31-2013, 12:35 PM
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call in and talk to Brandon. He will help you troubleshoot the valves.
 
  #15  
Old 11-02-2013, 04:25 PM
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Hopefully no trouble shooting necessary. Got the injectors in and the lines and the intake manifold off. Just took valve covers off and yes, someone had already installed 60lbs exhaust springs. Different color and slightly wider on the exhaust side only. Checking the clearance as of right now. I was wondering i have the injectors down in there holes in the correct placement to the bore slot for the ***** on the side of the injector but before i start screwing down the injector hold down nuts do i need to shove it down and hear it click or is just sitting in the ball grove enough? Going to find a loose TDC and do valves and probably finish up tomorrow after i make sure what i am doing is right. Anyone hear of installing twin grid heaters? This truck has got a banks twin ram intake and there is dual heating grids on this bad boy. Someone loved this truck with a crap load of money, I feel like a lucky man. All i've done is replace exhaust, vacuum pump, power steering pump, raptor fuel pump and a posi lock so it deleted my 4X4 vacuum engagement because i hate my vacuum going to anything other then just my exhaust brake, cruise control and HVAC. And my next project is fixing the pac brake solenoid accidentally broke the small chip on the top of it need to hit up pac brake for a replacement solenoid. Needs a new gear box too. Then a gorend input shaft, torque converter and valve body!

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Then i can take apart the afc and see what this truck can do! Still has the screw without a spot to get a screwdriver or allen wrench on. So its never been a racer kept my rebuilt tranny decent, so hopefully i do not have to totally rebuild it before i go crazy with HP.
 

Last edited by mattshow123; 11-02-2013 at 04:25 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #16  
Old 11-02-2013, 06:14 PM
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just make sure you go to Ebay and grab a set of ARP head studs ... just got mine for $417.99 from E-bay .... gonna make this thing fly ...
 
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  #17  
Old 11-02-2013, 07:45 PM
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your twin grid heaters are actually the factory grid heater split into the two sides of the manifold. factory heaters are two units stacked on top of each other. the injectors just sit in the head. the ball is for alignment only. injector nuts go to 44 ft lbs.
 
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  #18  
Old 11-03-2013, 01:21 AM
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Ah i see thanks turbo2332. And yeah I am gonna do studs when I can afford a new turbo. Usually just repair things with upgraded parts when they act up. So i can justify it to my girlfriend and not fixing the house up. Not pushing high boost or timing yet. I got the injector lines back on ripped a gasket on the intake manifold in between the grid heater gonna make one tomorrow, and replace the back 4 valve cover gaskets as they were oozing a bit of oil but the front two were perfectly clean, no visible damage was on any of them. so i might just clean and try and reuse them and then i will figure out if it was just my injectors or if i need to do timing next to finally kill this problem, hate white smoke. Checked the valves, they were perfect on almost all but one and only a .002 off on the intake on #6 a bit to tight. The clicking was on a power steering pump bolt, a washer was loose just flopping back and fourth. Not a horrible waste of time, I have learned a lot just from reading all the write ups on this forum.
 
  #19  
Old 11-03-2013, 11:18 AM
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kewl .. keep us posted .....
 
  #20  
Old 11-03-2013, 11:44 PM
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Ok, everything back on started it up. I can tell the difference in HP! but still got white smoke. Last thing i gotta try now is timing and hopefully that will fix it. Anyone from central oregon and own a dial indicator or a local shop that will charge me fairly? Gonna make calls tomorrow. Probably get and indicator when i get head studs and a turbo. I just need this to get me by for mpg to school, until i can save some money. Any other ideas if its not timing? running out of ideas to get this fuel to burn more complete.
 


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