12 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 94-98 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with P7100 Injection Pumps

98 cummings with the California emmisions. need help removing the EGR

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  #51  
Old 12-06-2012, 08:19 AM
mtbcummins's Avatar
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Default Guaranteed fix with a small catch

This is going to be a long post guys so I apologize up front. This is right from the official Dodge repair manual.
First thing to look at is when/why does the PCM even look at the EGR;
WHEN MONITORED: "With the engine running and engine temp above 140*F but less than 210. Intake air temp is more than 20*F but less than 170.

Now we look at what it takes to set a trouble code;
SET CONDITION: "Once ALL the conditions are met the EGR is turned on. The Intake Air Temp Sensor signal is monitored for changes in its output signal during the EGR operation. If no significant change is seen a trouble code is set.

So it is my opinion that no matter what you do on the EGR side of things the code is going to return because as it states - the PCM is ONLY looking at the Intake Air Temp Sensor for a significant temp change when all the right conditions are met (The engine temp sensor and air intake temp sensor within normal operation temps). If the PCM doesn't see the temp swing - bang the code sets.

So for your fix; simply keep the Engine Temp Sensor 'out of this range' and the PCM will NEVER look for the EGR to work. Note; you can not manipulate the Intake Air Temp Sensor or the air intake heater will not work and you will have cold start issues.

Here is what I did 2 months ago with no code returning;
(1) - Go to radioshack and purchase a 5 pack of 220-Ohm, 1/4 watt resistors (P/N 271-1313). This will set you back about $1.25
(2) - You need 3 of these tied together in series to equal 660-Ohms, (I soldered mine together and then put heat shrink over the whole thing)
(3) - Unplug the Engine Temp Sensor (it has 2 wire pigtail located about 3/4 the way back from front of engine very near the very back of AFC)
(4) - Look at harness side of connector (not the side going back to sensor)
(5) - You need to add the proper connectors to each end of your resistor jumper so it will plug into the terminals inside harness side of connector
(6) - Plug in your jumper into harness where engine temp sensor was plugged in and tie off sensor connector.
(7) - If you have access to a scanner look at your engine temp with key on or running (mine reads 215*F, which is just 'out of the range' that the PCM will look at EGR. Therefore the PCM will NEVER again look for EGR function and WILL NOT set code.

Okay and now for the catch; Dodge (in their infinite wisdom) only uses 1 engine temperature sensor/sender that shares double duty. Meaning it sends a signal to the PCM and the PCM converts this signal and sends it to the dash. So end result is you dash temp gauge will ALWAYS read 215* the instant the key is turned on. I have chosen to live with this and I will be adding an Autometer temp gauge to the top side of steering column soon, now that I know my fix worked.
So the bottom line for the catch is your factory temp gauge will ALWAYS read 215* and if you decide to go this route you will most likely want to add an aftermarket temp gauge.

I warned you from the beginning it was going to be a long one, sorry for that!
Hope this helps!
 
  #52  
Old 12-06-2012, 06:45 PM
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thanks for the info, I did notice that if I keep my foot out of the pedal that the CEL will stay off and reset on it's own. your post makes sence Thanks
 
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