AT WHAT HP SHOULD I ????
#11
#13
WELL, Sorry its been a while boys i've been very busy, I like the whole Tie-Rod conversation, but no one has answered my question. When should i think about swapping drive shafts, axels, diffs, ect? 450 hp is all it took for the one above to sheer, but is that a isolated insident? and is it 450 RWHP or 450 at the crank? I just want to know cause i hear about swapping trans all the time but nothing about the rest of the drive train. I figure if its to much HP forthe stock trans, then its probably to much HP for everything else after the trans. but hey i dont know thats y im asking.
O MY GOAL: 800 RWHP, daily driver/towing/farm use/ some 1/4 fun
O MY GOAL: 800 RWHP, daily driver/towing/farm use/ some 1/4 fun
Last edited by cbsmoraine; 04-21-2011 at 10:51 PM.
#14
you're gona need to worry about your engine first if you want 800hp, the rods and pistons wont take that much hp
the reason the transmission doesn't like a lot of added hp is because the stock single disc converter wasn't designed for it, once the converter starts to slip then the clutches start to take a beating etc etc.... a rebuilt kit takes care of the major issues and the Allison hard parts are able to take a considerably larger amount of hp/tq....
as far as i know twisted drive shafts dont happen very often, especially at 450rwhp, if that were the case mine should have dynamited a long time ago... at 800hp you may run into issues but custom built drive shafts cost $$$ too... you can upgrade the axle shafts and the locker for something stronger, but the AAM 11.5 is a really stout unit
at 800hp you should be doing low 11's in the 1/4 at 500hp you can do high to mid 12's... is the extra work and wear and tear worth that extra second with a DD/Farm truck? it will cost you a considerable amount to get it to that point of 800hp and keep it reliable
the reason the transmission doesn't like a lot of added hp is because the stock single disc converter wasn't designed for it, once the converter starts to slip then the clutches start to take a beating etc etc.... a rebuilt kit takes care of the major issues and the Allison hard parts are able to take a considerably larger amount of hp/tq....
as far as i know twisted drive shafts dont happen very often, especially at 450rwhp, if that were the case mine should have dynamited a long time ago... at 800hp you may run into issues but custom built drive shafts cost $$$ too... you can upgrade the axle shafts and the locker for something stronger, but the AAM 11.5 is a really stout unit
at 800hp you should be doing low 11's in the 1/4 at 500hp you can do high to mid 12's... is the extra work and wear and tear worth that extra second with a DD/Farm truck? it will cost you a considerable amount to get it to that point of 800hp and keep it reliable
Last edited by BriteWhiteRam; 04-23-2011 at 12:04 PM.
#15
Thank you white, that is alot closer to what i was looking for than i have gotten from anyone so far. i guess im looking for a number. i like that at least now i have a range that i can play with. i am just worryed that im going to throw a new trans in my truck, and then beef up everything, with out thinking about the drive shaft and what not. them im going to ge the truck out on the street, go to punch it to get on the highway or something, and then destroy everything.
#16
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02LB7DURAMAX (05-03-2011)
#17
if i was going to build a every day driver to play with the only trans thing i would do is the converter. the only part of the drive shaft i would worry about is the u joints i have broke a few at stock but i am a dully so i am getting a little better traction. and also i plow snow so there is the weight. I also agree with Britewhite i would stay around 500 hp for the reliability part. 800 hp alot can start going wrong.