No I don't think so, if the spring changes the rpm curve (so to speak) I've not noticed it; and I've played with a bunch of springs. The only difference I've paid attention to is the top RPM which is governed by the strength of the spring pulling against the ball bearing in the governor. There is a second smaller spring running from the fuel rack to the front cover, if this spring is weak the engine will be slow to fuel.

 

Thanks Kubotaman, I sort of thought the extra rpm only came on at full movement,
What about shaving the speed control stop post a bit to get more travel on the speed control arm? I wanted to try and get another 200rpm without changing the spring, now that the engine is already in the Jeep.

 

I think I am finally finished with the engine mounts, I have a little bit of trimming to do on the drivers side, but I don't think I need any re-engineering. The passenger side got very complicated because it does double duty as the Aircon mount, and both belt tensioners. It is a pretty big PIA to install because it is so big, and access to the MB rubber mount is very difficult as well.
I was thinking to try and use the 2698 mounts, but I will have to re-design the complete frame side mount on both sides if I do. I hope I don't have the same experience that FTE had with the benz mounts. They don't compress too too far with the full engine weight on them. I still have to get the accessory oil system put together before I go for a engine start. but the engine should not be going anywhere

 

Hey Red or anyone that got a jeep tachometer to work. I know there was some discussion on some threads about getting tach's to work by hooking up both the crank position sender and the Cam position sender.
My project is moving rite along, at least at night when it is not too hot to work. I am using the crank and cam senders out of the '94 transmission donor jeep. The crank position sender seems to be pretty straight forward,
My question is about the cam position sender? attached is a pic of my cam sender, that was inside the distributor. you have to take out the distributor to get it out.
So I am assuming the only part of the sender I need is the metal magnet part at the point of the pen in the pic? The wires actually go up into the thin shim like area opposite the metal magnet in the pic. I don't need that part???? do I ?
Then I also thought I read that some folks got a working tach by just jumping the cam sender wires into the crank sender??? and other have mounted the cam sender looking at some magnets that were mounted remotely on any rotating part of the engine? This came out of a 6 cyl jeep. funny I could really only see 4 targets in the distributor for the cam seder to look at, not 3 as I expected.
I am about done for tonight, but for tomorrow I am going to try and set up a temporary down pipe from the turbo so I can start to test run the engine and hopefully check for not having any oil leaks from all the extra oil lines I had to set up, and then I can also start on mounting the wastegate, intercooler and radiator

Well if anyone can help with the tachometer I am wanting to learn about it

 

Sorry, had a busy couple days. You don't need the cam sensor at all. I'll try to get some time and look at my documentation tomorrow. Feel free to bug me so I don't forget. :-)

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

 

Ok, sorry this took so long. Your Cherokee is a '98, right? If so it SHOULD be the same as mine, but it's worth double checking wire colors and such.

So what you're wanting to do is keep the crankshaft sensor as it was, because this is where it actually gets the signal from, and splice the signal wire from the PCM for the camshaft sensor into the signal wire for the crankshaft sensor. That way when the PCM looks for a signal from the cam sensor it sees it and says 'ok, start the gauges'. It doesn't care what the signal is actually saying as long as it's there.

For mine I have

Crank signal
PCM PIN A8
Wire color GRY/BLK

Cam signal
PCM PIN A18
Wire color TAN/YEL

The easiest way to figure it out is that each sensor should have 3 wires: power, ground, and signal. The power and ground are shared, so the colors will be the same on both sensors. The ones you're looking for are the wires that are different.

Hope that helps.

 

Thanks Red, Yes the new Kubota jeep is a '98. but really a hodge podge now, The body is '98 2wd 4.0l six auto; that now has the Kubota and a AX15 from a '94 2wd xj, with a '99 4cyl clutch pedal assy, and I don't remember which clutch hyd I used.
I think I understand. I hook the crank sender up normally, and then I can just connect the cam signal wire from the chassis side to the crank sensor signal wire. Are you doing this at the chassis end of the connectors, or at the PCM? it would seem it should not matter
I just looked in my Haynes manual, and there is not much about the cam sender. but I think it will be like the '98 Dakota, in that that the power supply will have 5vdc coming from the PCM, and then like you said a gnd, and then the 3rd wire will have a fluctuating signal that should be 0-5-0-5 etc. vdc, as the sensor trips when the engine is rotating.
It is sad that the Haynes manual for the cherokee seems to be a lot less informative than the Haynes manual for the Dakota. I just went through all this stuff on the Dakota because when I got home from work it was a no start. I think the Cherokee manual calls the cam sender a SYNC Sensor??? I did see in the Cherokee manual that the crank, and the SYNC sensor have the same wire color for the power and gnd. so I hope that will be the case . I will not be able to get under the jeep to check the crank sender wiring until the morning. but I think you are correct.
I also need to start adapting the new alt/vac pump wiring to the jeep system. A few other ( 100's ) of things to do and I should hope to get it started so I can move it around if need be.

Thanks again Red. I am sure I will have some more electrical questions as I progress. What manual are you getting all your electrical info from???

 

Here is a pic of my cam sender from the '94 I am pretty sure it is different than the later models. I think I will use Redvelce's method , but thanks to Evenglass as well for his input from his '96 MB cherokee

 

Good idea. the only reason I kept that sensor was that at the time I couldn't find a single person who could verify that jumping the cam and CPS would work. I knew I could get it to work correctly the way I did it and didn't want to risk cutting wires just to test. Also what works on a 94' computer may not work on a 96'+ as I believe the 0.5v signal the computer needs are not the same between cam and CPS. I am 98% sure about all of this 15% of the time.

 

Quick fuel return question. I am going to re-use a fuel filter that I got with my spare carrier engine. It was not hooked up when I picked up the engine. there is a tiny hose barb in the top of the filter head with an even smaller orifice in it that goes into the entry side of the filter.
I am assuming that this is for the small fuel return line coming off the #4 injector?? And that this is the only fuel return necessary on this engine?
The main question is will this be ok for a short distance run compared to the OE longer run; and not let air in the system? From my short little engine runs, it seems there is a lot less fuel return on this engine compared to the MB's
Also for the late model jeepers, I guess there is a anti siphon set up on the in tank pump on the newer xj's. I can't get fuel flow from the fuel supply without the intank pump being turned on. I believe that the older xj's would free flow fuel past the pump, but not this late model. So I will either need to run the pump or remove it.
There was a poster a few days ago that I think was having the same problem with a MB in a Dakota.

last picture, I have finished accessory drive, all tensioned up, I just need one more PS fulid supply line and to test run it