http://www.tsmmfg.com/2670.htm


you know you ford boys want'em!!!!!!!!!!

LOGANSTANFORTH's Sig:

THEY SAY CRIME DOSENT PAY, BUT NEITHER DOES FARMING THESE DAYS

'85-'98 Ford Sterling rear disc brake conversion kit includes:
Brackets, Spacers, Bolts and new 12 3/4" vented Rotors










Additional Parts (Needed to complete installation)

Part No. 3010 New (Not Rebuilt) Calipers without parking brakes $120.00 pair

Part No. 3700 Rubber Hoses 9 1/2" $50.00 pair
-OR-
Part No. 3702-8 Braided Stainless hoses 8" $50.00 pair

Part No. 3120 New (Not Rebuilt) Calipers with parking brakes $320.00 pair

Part No. 3111 Short Cable Extensions $20.00 pair

Part No. 3701 Rubber hoses 9 1/2" $50.00 pair
-OR-
Part No. 3703-8 Braided Stainless hoses 8" $50.00 pair



Assembly Instructions

Ford Sterling Rear Disc Brake Kit

(Will fit single and 17.5", 19.5"dual rear wheels)

(Will not fit 16" dual wheels)



Parts List

(2) 2 Piece Brake Brackets

(4) Spacers

(2) New Vented Rotors

(4) 1/2 - 20 X 1 1/4 Grade 8 Bolts

(4) 1/2 - 20 X 1 1/4 Grade 8 T Bolts

(8) 1/2 - 20 X 1 3/4 Grade 8 Bolts

(16) 1/2 - 20 Grade 8 Nuts

(16) 1/2 inch Grade 8 Lock Washers

Replacement and Additional Parts

(2) 79 - 87 1/2 Ton 4x4 Chevy Truck Front Calipers.

(2) 76 - 78 Eldorado rear calipers with parking brakes, pads, and mounting screws.

Installation Instructions

1. Remove the axle and hub from the rear end housing in the usual manner.
2. Bolt the base brackets to the housing using the (4) 1/2 – 20 x 1 1/4 bolts and T bolts, lock washers and nuts. The brackets can go forward or backward and in a 45 degree or 90 degree position. Also if you turn the bracket over there will be 2 slightly different positions for the caliper. The rear parking brake calipers have their bleed screw in the 90-degree position and the front calipers have the bleed screw in the 45-degree position. Bolt the top bracket to the base with the spacers between. (The bracket is spaced to the inside of the truck away from the rotor.)
3. Reinstall the hub, slip the rotors over the studs and check for runout in the rotor .005 or less is good. Install the calipers.
4. The calipers move every time the brakes are applied and as the pads wear. We recommend using a flexible brake hose; this also makes it easier to change pads.

Before you disconnect the rear lines, pinch off the rubber line between the frame and axle. This will keep the fluid in the lines and make it easier when you bleed the system.

You must remove the calipers from the bracket and gravity bleed. See troubleshooting sheet.

In the straight back position to use the 4th axle flange hole you have to grind some on the head of the t-bolt.

In the 45 degree position to use the 4th axle flange hole you have to either weld in a stud in the hole facing toward the wheel or thread the hole and use a short bolt.

Additional Parts (Needed to complete installation)

Part No. 3010 New (Not Rebuilt) Calipers without parking brakes $120.00 pair

Part No. 3700 Rubber Hoses 9 1/2" $50.00 pair
-OR-
Part No. 3702-8 Braided Stainless hoses 8" $50.00 pair

Part No. 3120 New (Not Rebuilt) Calipers with parking brakes $320.00 pair

Part No. 3111 Short Cable Extensions $20.00 pair

Part No. 3701 Rubber hoses 9 1/2" $50.00 pair
-OR-
Part No. 3703-8 Braided Stainless hoses 8" $50.00 pair

Should this be broken up? It looks like I would need 4 calipers. I assume it means one set of calipers if I want to retain the parking brake and a different set if I dont.

Sycostang67's Sig:

1993 F-250HD SC XLT Lariat 4X4 7.3/ZF5spd ATS Turbo-173hp/335tq
1985 F-250HD SC XLT Lariat 4X4 460/ZF5spd
1986 F-250HD SC XLT Lariat 4X4 460/C6
1967 Mustang coupe 351/4spd
2006 Jeep Liberty 3.7/AT (Wifes rig)

Do these make a big difference in stopping? Whats a kit run price wise?