Pulling Hitch Build...
Well Saturday is the season opener so I figured it would be a good time to build a hitch!
Started out with all this, got it all at Northern Tool and Equipment and I have put in the part numbers so that you can order online if you need to.
From left to right we have
Total Price: $69.96

First Mock up where to attach the adaptor to the channel. You want it in a spot that will give you the most adjustability for different pulls/rules. Mine is all they way up because my hitch is REAL low to the ground. The reason i used the adaptor was that it was a 2" piece of stock that already had the hole in it... Only prep was to grind the paint off it to weld.

After that you can weld it up. Make sure it is square.

Pretty up the welds with a grinder is you so desire.

Good welds for a stick machine

nice penitration

And that's it! I used the pins instead of the bolts that come with the ring and channel so that the hitch can be adjusted easy and quick. You could save $10 by using th ebolts but I like these better.

Started out with all this, got it all at Northern Tool and Equipment and I have put in the part numbers so that you can order online if you need to.
From left to right we have
- 3" Adjustable Eye and Channel (Comes in a kit) Part #128901
- 2" tp 1-1/2" Hitch Adaptor Part #330686
- (2) - 5/8"x4" HD Hitch Pins Part #125610
Total Price: $69.96

First Mock up where to attach the adaptor to the channel. You want it in a spot that will give you the most adjustability for different pulls/rules. Mine is all they way up because my hitch is REAL low to the ground. The reason i used the adaptor was that it was a 2" piece of stock that already had the hole in it... Only prep was to grind the paint off it to weld.

After that you can weld it up. Make sure it is square.

Pretty up the welds with a grinder is you so desire.

Good welds for a stick machine

nice penitration

And that's it! I used the pins instead of the bolts that come with the ring and channel so that the hitch can be adjusted easy and quick. You could save $10 by using th ebolts but I like these better.

bobby.... lookin' good.... the brace you are gonna do..... is it gonna triangulate it from the top of the channel to the square part of the hitch? that would be the most structurally sound thing to do.....
on a side note i think i've been to that house.......
on a side note i think i've been to that house.......
I hope that tubing does not bend. You may also want to use some grade 8 bolts for the ring and 2" stock instead of those hitch pins. Make sure to use something like 1/2" plate for the gussets.
here is a couple shots of the one I built
I took the straight on approach
I think yer gonna have a hard time not bending that..............the 90* angle is gonna put a huge stress load on it
the loop is one inch cold roll
I took the straight on approach
I think yer gonna have a hard time not bending that..............the 90* angle is gonna put a huge stress load on it
the loop is one inch cold roll
holy long hitch batman!
looks good, but it WILL bend and break off that 2" tubing right behind your welds unless you gusset it.
if you are really serious about pulling (not just a once a year at the fair type puller) then cut that hitch down and suck it up under the truck more. the closer the better.

I wish mine was closer but I would have had to either build a whole new custom receiver or cut the heck out of my stocker to slide it forward, but I didn't wanna weaken it any.
oh and BTW- those hitch pins are the first thing to break with a truck that has traction and some good power. some orgs wont even allow you to use them because its a safety issue if hitches are breaking all night.
looks good, but it WILL bend and break off that 2" tubing right behind your welds unless you gusset it.
if you are really serious about pulling (not just a once a year at the fair type puller) then cut that hitch down and suck it up under the truck more. the closer the better.

I wish mine was closer but I would have had to either build a whole new custom receiver or cut the heck out of my stocker to slide it forward, but I didn't wanna weaken it any.
oh and BTW- those hitch pins are the first thing to break with a truck that has traction and some good power. some orgs wont even allow you to use them because its a safety issue if hitches are breaking all night.
And that is a different house. Stephs Uncle's house in Mathews. He used to be a welder at the shipyard.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
holy long hitch batman!
looks good, but it WILL bend and break off that 2" tubing right behind your welds unless you gusset it.
if you are really serious about pulling (not just a once a year at the fair type puller) then cut that hitch down and suck it up under the truck more. the closer the better.

I wish mine was closer but I would have had to either build a whole new custom receiver or cut the heck out of my stocker to slide it forward, but I didn't wanna weaken it any.
oh and BTW- those hitch pins are the first thing to break with a truck that has traction and some good power. some orgs wont even allow you to use them because its a safety issue if hitches are breaking all night.
looks good, but it WILL bend and break off that 2" tubing right behind your welds unless you gusset it.
if you are really serious about pulling (not just a once a year at the fair type puller) then cut that hitch down and suck it up under the truck more. the closer the better.

I wish mine was closer but I would have had to either build a whole new custom receiver or cut the heck out of my stocker to slide it forward, but I didn't wanna weaken it any.
oh and BTW- those hitch pins are the first thing to break with a truck that has traction and some good power. some orgs wont even allow you to use them because its a safety issue if hitches are breaking all night.
this was just a quick fix for this weekend. It will be beefed up for the rest of the season, just need it to last one time before I fix it up. I don't think my poor little 1st Gen can hurt it too bad... the CR maybe.
Last edited by RSWORDS; Apr 10, 2008 at 07:48 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
i would look for the scrap today man...i really think that tubing is gonna break right behind the weld, even with the ole' first gen. thats alot of leverage with the ring up high pulling down on that thing.
the weld won't break, but the tubing will.
the weld won't break, but the tubing will.
Yeah.. I think your right... I was hoping to have it last a pull but why chance it... I'm sure i can find something in my travels today.






