headbolt/ stud remover
#1
headbolt/ stud remover
I just wanted to share my experience with the headbolt/ stud remover I used to remove and replace the intake and exhaust manifold studs.
It works by clamping the stud with three internal moving bolts that clamp the bolt very safe and strong.
Just slide it over the stud and turn it into the right direction( works on left and right threads) to lock it- than use your 1/2" ratchet to loosen the bolts with a steady motion.
It also worked on two broken studs with less than a half inch remaining outside the head.
Mounting the new bolts with the needed torque was very easy without damaging the threads.
No need to use two nuts and locking them to torque the stud.
Cons:
- expensive ( 45$)
- metric only
It works by clamping the stud with three internal moving bolts that clamp the bolt very safe and strong.
Just slide it over the stud and turn it into the right direction( works on left and right threads) to lock it- than use your 1/2" ratchet to loosen the bolts with a steady motion.
It also worked on two broken studs with less than a half inch remaining outside the head.
Mounting the new bolts with the needed torque was very easy without damaging the threads.
No need to use two nuts and locking them to torque the stud.
Cons:
- expensive ( 45$)
- metric only
#2
#3
each bolt size has it's own stud remover- that makes it expensive.
They are available in metric 6, 7, 8, 10, 12mm. All five together in a solid plastic case run you 276$. Thats a lot of money in my opinion.
But if I would have to work with expensive ARP head bolts, it could be a must have.
They are available in metric 6, 7, 8, 10, 12mm. All five together in a solid plastic case run you 276$. Thats a lot of money in my opinion.
But if I would have to work with expensive ARP head bolts, it could be a must have.
#5
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