When we built my dads shop we used 1/2" rebar crossed every 2 feet. In the area that we installed the twin post we ran the concrete 6" thick as opposed to the 4" that the rest of the shop got.

 

Curtis
our BX24 is a TLB goes down 6' 12" wide I can get it level in no time, we'll just need a load or two of sand for a good base to compact. anytime buddy!!! anytime!!

the only concrete I deal with is the stuff that comes on the truck!!!! Its up to you and the driver to have them mix it with more or less water for the slump. Id run wire mesh (concrete mill will have this in stock) but do 10x10 sections and cut a expansion joint in the concrete to help with cracks

2 guarantees with crete... its going to get hard and its going to crack!!

 

thanks for the help, i realize 220 is cheaper, and i've already planned on running everything 220 that i possibly can!! I was thinking about 6 per breaker, but i think i'll take your advice and only put 4 outlets per breaker!!

Thanks, i'll probably just put 6" throughout the whole polebarn, and probably go 8" thick on the approach to the barn. I'll have my main water line running under the approach, and the guys that dug my new well said to go extra thick there, so the constant running over it wouldn't freeze it up.

Too bad you weren't closer!! As i said before, you do an awesome job indeed!!!!

As far as leveling goes i'll take ya up on your offer. As soon as the weather cracks for decent days and the ground dry's out a little!!

I guess another question is now, will i really need the wire mesh? Couldn't really hurt to put it in there, as overkill is always best.

When you say cut the concrete, you mean, poor all one section, and then just get the saw out and cut releifs like 1-2" deep?

Thanks again everyone!

 

Damn, can't neat this kinda response. I'm still tryin to figure out what I'm gonna do to replace the trash the tornado left behind. Wish I lived closer to anybody around here.

 

You're right man. You really can't beat the kind of friends that i've met on the couple of diesel boards i frequent. Hell lately i've talked with guys on here more than i have my own brother and he's only 15 mins away, at most!

Sorry to hear about the tornado, that really does suck. Wish i could help ya out in some way!

Have a good one

Curtis

 

You can help. Keep track of what it's costin ya and where you found the deals at. And don't forget lots a pictures. I wanna see a whole albums worth.

 

You could build 2 separate "bays" as well for the lift. This will allow shorter ceiling height in the primary area and reduce any heating costs. The lift could be an area where the ceiling height is much greater. The bays could be fully or partially partitioned.

Obviously you have some local knowledge it sounds like. In my area, reinforcing is required and with our glacial till, a floor wouldn't last but a few years without it. Obviously, site prep and soil condition will be the deciding factors.

We go a bit deeper on the lift floors and the type of lift will dictate where the pads are at. We use a 3'-4' drop with some big sono tube for 2 posters here. 4 post is a bit easier and the proper mix of concrete and some spreader pads get it done.

I agree on the electrical. 220 everywhere you can. Plan your lighting and outlet design so that you can run multiple tools at the same time. And figure on these tools to be used in close proximity to one another. Just seems to work out that way.

I like to use electrical reels to help further isolate electrical circuts.

Most likely, you will not be able to feed off the house, but will have to put in another sub panel. This will feed off the same meter however. So, backfeeding the house will not be practical from the shop. As you cannot isolate the street wire from the house in this configuration, you'll be energizing the wire.

My preference for a generator that will supply both the shop and the house would be a whole house generator with automatic switches. Works really well for me, is compliant with local codes and is foolproof. Not to mention the lineman fixing a power outage will be very appreciative!

Your area will obviously be different than mine, but all pole barn buildings must be site engineered here. Water runoff reclamation, electrical, soil type, drainage, wetlands, height, wind and sesmic load, snow load and a few other factors are dictated for the build. Even the depth of the posts has to be passed by the county.

If you can just throw one up, you are some lucky folks!

Dave

 

I'll take as many pic's as i possibly can. I got one hell of a deal on a 24x32 that was already put up. Some people i knew just built it, and he lost his job. I bought it all for 1500$, but had to take it down in 1 weeks time, in the middle of december 06. The cement is going to put the biggest gouge in my very tight budget, but i think i can get it done.
2 separate sides of the barn is what i've thought about too. Where i'll park my truck, and the GF's Jimmy i'm going to have a bathroom on the backside. If i go this route i'll put a drop ceiling in and only heat one side to a steady 50* so the water doesn't freeze.

By all means i will not do anything would/could put a linemans life in danger. There's been story's around here of lineman getting zapped cause they were lazy and didn't check for voltage before they dug in. I'll do my part, they're just going to have to do theirs!

In some areas around here, you can get away with "slapping it up" and calling it good. I live too close to I-94 and they'd notice a new structure going up. I need to get my building permit and everything else.

Thanks
Curtis

 

yep pour the slab and the next day or so I can come by with the saw and we'll run a few chalk lines and cut it, we stick the blade down 3/4" As far as wire mesh I would do it. thats a heck of a deal on the barn!!!!!

 

Like I said before, I'm not an electrician, but you might be able to trench power to the pole barn with a switch box and run the house as a sub panel so you can still run a generator. Any electricians want to chime in?

Josh