DM,

I'll add to that:

24V (ISB):
* steering wander, sector shaft problems, power steering pump problems and alignment problems.
* crank case breather troubles.
2002 24V (ISB)
* Poor paint on doors and no rear wheel liners.
12V and 24V:
cracked dashs and moldy floor boards from condensate draining back to low point inside.

2003 24V (ISBE)
Over 40 ECM writes making it nearly impossible to get a decent stock computer. Immediately purchase a smarty and over right and you will be great - even stock.

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Matt,

Off roading and diesels - esp. the cummins are, or can be bad news because the blocks are really heavy and they sink easily in the goo. They have the power to get out but it should remain a concern.

A small point - its CummINs not CummENs but that's not a big deal.

If you buy new look at the Cummins for the complete OTR tested SCR system. This is the best enviro system out there.

If used your best bet on the Cummins side is the 2004.5 actually. Its a 5.9 block and has lots of power, add-ons and many other positives that the other years don't. I can't speak for the Chevy except to note that I'm not certain what year they put the lift pump on the CP3 trucks. The older DMAXs don't have one. The Ford, well, again, from my opinion (every one has one), the 6.0L is junk and the 6.4L burns a lot of fuel but is a pretty cool looking truck. The older 7.3L is the way to go there.

From what I've read the new Ford block will be a 6.7 but will have an internal EGR or in cylinder EGR which is what their plan is for SCR. This makes the truck run really hot and when you add fuel will make it run really hot, really fast.

I can't say anything about the 2010 DMAX as I know nothing about it at this point.

Enjoy.

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DM,

More still:

2004 24V ISBE:
This is the 2003 truck without any computer issues. A better used deal.
2004.5 24V ISBE:
This truck seems to be the best overall used new generation truck. Power, trouble free and an all around good deal.
2005 24V ISBE:
Injector troubles start here in earnest. Leak down troubles, rust on and in inlet tubes, common rail pressure relief issues and sometimes a plastic end covers on the intercooler which is trouble.
2006 24V ISBE:
I don't know of any issues except there is a push now for environmental crap.
2007 24V ISBE:
The last full year of the 5.9L block
2007.5 24V ISBE 6.7L:
Poor fuel economy, lots of enviro junk with a poorly designed DPF system as a precursor to the complete SCR system of the 2010 truck to be released soon.

 

also with the new dodge 6.7 the clutches are junk make sure that if you plan on buying one if used see if they have replaced it with the upgrade or get it done if you plan to pull

the newer fords egr cooler has problems with stoping up
make sure you use the prpoer antifreeze to avoid many problem
vw tdi make sure that if u are buying used and high milage make sure to see if the tranny has been rebuilt if it goes out it is a very costly repair

 

On the subject of VW product:

Make absolutely certain that all used product up to 2002 has had the timing belt and water pump replaced at 100,000 km. 2003 and newer its' 160,000. This is not something you consider doing next time - it will kill your motor if neglected.

Make absolutely certain that if you plan on lowering the car or running it in less than ideal conditions that you purchase and install an aluminum skid plate. The steel version available is too heavy for the shade tree mechanic to perform maintenance with. Evolution Imports makes and sells that.

In all non common rail VW diesels make sure that if equipped with EGR that this is completely removed from the car and cleaned out at least 1 time per year. It is not hard to do if you've done it as many times as I have but the first time it will take you about 6 hours.

 

Also,at alot of dealerships they will allow you to take the vehicle to a shop for a presale inspection.So if you know a good shop that you trust,take it to them and let them give the vehicle a detailed inspection.That is also another great way to see if something isn't right.Alot of shops will do a front to back inspection,fuel pressures,ect.
Also if you don't know a good shop,then post it on this web site and someone in your area might know a shop they trust that you can take the vehicle to.

 

If your looking at a used 24V cummins and it has a fuel pressure gauge , chances are it dont have the stock VP44.

 

Wow very nice one post..!

 

I have been doing my research for awhile now and think I am ready to pull the triger on my first diesel. Going to use it on the farm and also pulling a 33 ft. Travel trailer. I have it narrowed down to the 2002 or 2003 ford F250 or F350 with the 7.3 power stroke. Any insight what to be wary of when kicking the tires?

 

I would love ya"ll expertise. I'm looking at and 02 Duramax to buy. Was my neighbors that has passed. It has 88 thous. He bought new. I have had 7.3 liter for 295000 miles and rolled it. Just need advise from folks that know there business.

Thanks,Aledo

 

Looking at buying my 1st Diesel, It is a 84 F-250, Seller claims there is 80K on the truck and motor but the ODO turns back to Zero after 99,9999. Looking at the stock floor mats and foot pedals they do not have the wear of a vehicle over 100K. Truck drives pretty darn good. It is a 2WD... Any stabs at what I might pay for this??? The paint is rough but the truck seems real sound (NO RUST or previous bodywork)

 

Okay im a newbie, but I would check for front end issues on 7.3 ford ball joints and all bushings, tires are expensive and a 7.3 will eat em up if the front end is out of wack. If replacing ball joints do yourself a favor and spend the money for moog. Otherwise you'll be doing it again in 20000 miles or so. I would also check lifter valley for fuel. Pump has weep hole that will leak out before it goes bad. Does effect driving but mileage sucks.
Lb7 duramax. 2001-2004.5 I think, let idle and get warm then look for white or blue smoke, might have to step on throttle a little. If it smokes plan on injectors and rail lines fuel filter etc. 2, 000.00 plus dollars if you do it yourself. By all means pull dipstick and smell it. If it smells like diesel it needs injectors. Keep in mind that cracked injectors leak fuel directly into head which thins engine oil and can lead to other major problems. also these years have gauge problem . I.e. they quit working normally can be fixed for 150.00 or so.