ya...I figured as much I guess my only shot really is to see if it looks visably well taken care of maybe smell the oil (which they would change if they had .02 of common sense) and hope it's just that durable it won't fall apart. one of the trucks I really liked also was the harley bling F-350 but it had the 6.0..

Ok I don't want to annoy you guys with questions. Anyone that can recommend a few good threads with info? I see your point on "what chip" the salesmen actually said "I don't know how to use the chip but it's got one" LOL Thanks for all the info. They did mention a 5.9 I6 in a slightly older truck that was lifted etc.. I figured the 24V 5.9 wouldn't be as good as the 6.7 (no replacement for discplacement) but it sounds as though I may be wrong.

again your patience and responses here are WELL appreciated!!!!

 

As long as the 5.9L was a 03 or newer, I'd stick with that... If its older than an 03, go with the 6.7L... The 6.7 is a great motor, but the 5.9's don't have the DPF equipment, and there is a much larger aftermarket for them right now.

 

you sir are the man


ok...so nobody has any ideas on where to start with all the reading? This site has a l o t of information to start weeding through. damnit I didn't mean to smilie face thingie.

ps..opinions on the 08 ford 6.4L? F350 crew short bed box and some wierd step thing on the tale gate that has like ..this rod that comes up? what in the hell that's for I don't know..but it has a hook to hang a trash bag!! also gah I just can't stop with the questions. Torque converters how much of a difference does that make in the way the truck drives accelerates etc? What are your opions on tq converters.

 

For offroad, I would get a 3rd gen ram with 5.9L unless you want a new truck, then the 6.7L is fine. I would get a stick shift for durability, unless the type of offroading or driving skill only allows an automatic. The gearing will be 3.73 with the stick but comes out about the same as the auto with 4.10's. get some type of 4"-6" lift with 35's or 37's, arb air lockers (as soon as the are released), remove the front sway bar, and get a decent winch mounted on a 2" reciever and then get the 2" hitch on the front of the truck to. Man there is so much you can keep doing, the list will go on and on...
an assortment of skid plates, steering box brace, or hydro steer assist, bumpers, sliders, tire carriers, off road lighting, guages, fender flares or flared fenders, etc etc etc, if you have enough money then I think the list could go on and on.

Best bet is to buy the dodge cummins, and then add the parts that will make it as close to a factory power wagon as possible and call it quits before you spend your entire life savings.

I noticed at one point you mentioned that you thought the enginemay not be as responsive as having a gas offroad, but it will be fine, they react fast and the never ending torque is awsome. I can just put it in L and idle just about anywhere int he woods.

Also, someone mentioned Chevy keeping the IFS to keep the old men happy with ride quality. Personally I don't think their ride quality is that great. I drive a straight axle dodge on 37's short arm lift, and I worked at a chevy dealer as a salesman and can say from first hand experience that the torsion IFS doesn't ride much different than my truck. The 1500 coil IFS seemed to be a little better than the past models, but the 2500/3500 seem to be just as rough as my truck.

 

Alright, while he makes some good points, soe of his ideas are just scary. Don't EVER remove the front swaybar on the front of a Cummins truck... EVER!!! (unless its purely an off-road truck, and if that's the case, you don't want a Cummins). You don't need a steering box brace on a 3rd gen, and hydro steering assist is a waste.

The GM front IFS is a lot nicer riding than the Dodge... You know how unsprung weight effects ride quality? Well a solid axle weighs 2-3 times what a solid axle does.

 

Alot of people run their cummins without a sway bar. I don't run a sway bar on my truck, and I still haul with it and run it around town and on the highway as a daily commuter. I do agree that it could be more dangerous, however only slightly do you notice that it is un hooked. I am not sure why it would be any more dangerous in a cummins as opposed to any other truck?

I would recomend the steering brace it you are running 37's or bigger, definitely a good investment. I have read that some people think that the flex between the frame rails being tied together by the box brace will actually attempt to pull the seering box off, but I disagree.

The hydro is something I won't ever do just because I don't want the extra maintenance of more parts and stuff on my truck. However, it will defintely help turn those big tires, especially when you're creepin in the trails.

You know how poor engineering affects ride quality? haha J/K man

Typo I guess? again just kidding man

 

You're kidding right? You're talking about a 1200lb engine sitting much higher in the chassis, which means a higher center of gravity, and a much higer roll characteristic. If you have it disconnected, you are asking for trouble, and not just a roll over. Poor steering, excessive body roll, increased tire wear, etc. If you wanna do it, go ahead, but there's a big reason its on there.

Poor engineering does a lot, but even great engineering can't overcome physics.

Yeah, I missed that, my bad... But everyone knew what I meant. Solid axle > IFS

 

Hey Savage. welcome to DB! You should spend some time on CF dude.


To the OP, sounds like you are expecting this to be easy. Diesel's are not 1-2-3 easy fix. There is alot of knowledge to be had on these things. It is an endless classroom.

But here is one thing I did not see answered from your original post. You should be VERY VERY afraid to get water in your diesel. 1, you turbo is basically history if you get a good amount of water in it. A gas engine is also bad, but if you kill it in time, you can pop the plugs out and drain the water. You cannot with these. There are alot of expensive components that will be destroyed if you suck in water. Keep your hood above water. If you want to get crazy, jack your truck up high.

For the kids in the back part, if you need 4 doors, a 3rd gen ram is what you will be looking for. 03+. So that takes the 12V out of the picture. If you want crazy amounts of room for their muddy shoes to kick everything, get a Mega Cab. I personally think they look retarded, (the cab is longer than the bed) but that is just me.

This doesn't sound like a realistic dream you have here. Good luck on your quest on finding and building your perfect truck.

 

get a 03+ with a 5.9 quad cab short bed just like the power wagon. get a KORE chase or prerunner suspention 37's and some glass fenders (look at my avitar) relocate all the vents higher 4" exhaust a good intake and programmer like a smarty and you will love that truck and can go where ever you want (with hood above water) you can also huck it off dunes 3+ feet of air and drive home. then if you still want to run 13's add turbo/s and injectors. if you like auto trans save your money be needing one soon with above mods. I like standards so a good clutch and bingo your there.

 

I just need to know my limits. My old chevy had 6 inches on 35's and with correct driving and momentum you can keep water out of the engine bay with the skinny pedal. Knowing how sensitive it is to water just means I'll enter slow hammer it hard and pull through (shallower) the water with more of a wake and perhaps a front skid plate to redirect a little extra. mostly trail but I don't want to have to be terrified to go through 2 or 3 feet of water on top of some good fun mud. I found a good 5.9 05 looks good crew cab I think from pictures. Will have to check it out.

As far as speed goes I just want a truck when I pin it I know I am accelerating. It's not a racer but the factory 6.7 I test drove was a damn dog other than it kept chirping the tires with stupid amounts of torque...which.. I liked that part.

I planed on 37's on 16/17 inch rims (rubber =softer ride) Air locker in the front detroit for strength in the rear. Future mods will be a compressor converter.. and something nobody mentioned here I may have to get fabbed up.

Quick Disconnect sway bar.. I have a constant mount design in my head I am trying to find out how to fab it up..Thanks for all the feedback. I've looked into the Smarty's etc and it sounds GREAT blah 100hp blah blah right...

What kind of real numbers will come from the first few mods? better intake smarty or banks system and what do I need to be able to increase boost 3 or 4 lbs?