Since the Idaho group has always been the 12V capital of the world I'm askin my questions in here for the moment.

With Less then 40,000 miles on one of Blue Chip's fancy $1800 pumps my 4th pump has just taken a dump and been bench tested to verify it. Now even I'm thinkin about a P-Pump. This is gonna be a long term dead truck either way though. I'm tryin to keep animals fed and the bank from taken my property and this is not what i was lookin for next. This new year sucks ass so far. it's gotta get better from here.

So my options here are to P-Pump this motor or replace the motor. Is it better to just replace the whole motor and drop a 12V in the truck or spend the money to P-Pump the 24V motor.

My kid found a 12V rebuilt motor with a 2 year warranty on it ready to drop in minus the turbo and some aluminum plate that goes on the back of the block for $900. Much cheaper then doing the P-Pump conversion and I would still have a lot of extra parts to re-sell that would more then pay for the engine.

Or do I buy this motor, strip the parts I need to convert mine and then sell what's left.

I've always been against this change before because it just seemed like it's a waste of a good 24V engine to make it into essentially a 12V but I can't keep doin this. This will be the 4th pump in 200,000 miles, granted one was a free warranty exchange but still. And my fuel pressure has never dropped below 18psi the entire short life of this pump so I can't blame it on that either.

I would drop the 12 valve in instead of modifying the 24 valve. You could sell the 24 and get all of your money back, and then some. Just use the exhaust manifold, fuel filter setup, and turbo off of the 24.
Or better yet, get an exhaust manifold and turbo off of a 6.7 and hook up the variable turbo.
If you are into performance, then the swap is the best way to go. The 24 breaths better, has a better fuel filter setup, and can be turned over faster when stock.

They said there was an aluminum plate on the back of the motor that was missing also. Anybody know what that might be and what it would cost to get one.

The aluminum plate is probably the front of the bell housing. I don't know the interchangeability of those. Millco might chime in. He has more experience with those. The one on the 24 valve might bolt up.

p-pump conversion isnt bad if you are able to do the work yourself. you can get used pumps with the gear and gearcase for around $750(saw a good 180 pump for $500 the other day) lines run around $500. need some fittings and other small parts should be able to do it yourself for under $1500 with a few pump mods. it only cost me $1000 to do my conversion

Did I hear my name . . . . ? LOL

I have been extremely busy lately, if you ever need me just drop a PM or a text and I'll get it!

The aluminum plate is the 'engine adapter' plate. Far as I can tell there are three different styles (Not counting the new 6.7L. I don't know about them. YET!). Early first gens used the 'thin' one. Later 12V's and 24V's used basically the same plate but it was 1 in. thicker. I think this was to allow the longer input shaft of the New Venture trans over what the Getrag was. I don't have my notes with me but I think the auto and manual used the same plate during the same years. For the Common Rail they use the same thickness adapter plate but the bolt pattern on the back of the block is altered in two holes. I have one of the Common Rail ones that I will sell because the guy I bought it from either lied or didn't know what I just wrote. He listed it and sold it as being able to 'adapt' a NV trans to an old 12V.

If you look on Ebay, you should be able to find one. I think I got it for about $75. If you want the p/n for the one to look for, just let me know. (If I understand what you are doing here, I think you can just use the one you have!).
For the lines, I can find out where to get them alot cheaper. I will have to find out for you if you go that way. If they are actually a lot cheaper, then no one should charge that much for them! (If I remember right it was about $100 instead of $500 for the lines. If you want me to find out, let me know!)

Sorry your year is off to a ruff start! Hope it gets better from here on out!! Don't know if it would have anything you could use, but I have a 'broken' 12V. Let me know if there is anything that would help you. We are even heading out to your neck of the woods in Apr; maybe I could bring it along!

Oh, if I remember correctly, all of the manual trans used the same bolt pattern!

What do ya'll use for electronics? Heater grid, fuel filter heater, and shutoff solenoid...

I used the Dodge computer that was in the truck I got the engine out of.
The shutoff solenoid can be wired in easy with relays.
The intake heater can be wired in with a switch, and relays. It is mainly for emissions, until you get to 20 degrees above freezing.
Fuel heater? Don't know how that would be done.

do you leave the truck computer i place and just swap the cummins computer and harness? If so, does it just plug into the truck computer? That'd make life easy. An all new truck harness....... not so much