The ones I found from Interstate were 950CCA. I found a heavy equipment battery that was 1000CCA.

 

Two different dealers here say they have never seen a bad Yellow Optima come back to them! If that is true, that is great! I myself haven't seen or heard of any problems with the Optimas.

FordDZLMan9191: You asked if you can have too much battery. In a word - NO! Only problem you could run into is having a small altenator that wouldn't be able to charge it back up quickly enough. But as for the battery damaging anything in your electrical system; no, it won't (As long as it is the same voltage!). In this case, bigger is better!

(If you continue to kill your battery at drive inns and what not - consider using a separate battery with an isolator system!)

Oh, and someone was supposed to have come out this year with a compeditor to the Optima. I can't remember who it is. It might be Accel. Might be worth looking into!

I'm still on the OEMs in my Mega. So far they are holding up but at that age I'm sure they are about done! I plan on just dropping in a pair of Optima since they wind up costing less than conventional batteries would for the same life span (Unless the 'new' ones out are even better! Then I will use them.).

Do you guys know about the Midtronics electronic battery testers? They test the charging system and battery electronically and can give a detailed report of each components condition. Just remember to unhook multiple battery installations and test each battery individually so it can find a weak or bad battery! Around here NAPA stores have them and will test your battery for you.

 

Could I use batteries with a threaded stud rather than a standard terminal? I checked the ones at CAL Ranch and the group 31s they had only had the threaded studs and where $120 each. If I remember right it said 950CCA. They also had a group 8 or 8D(something like that) big huge thing for $189 and this guy was 1300CCA. It had regular terminals on it.

 

I would not use batteries with the small posts.

You want the big SAE posts with large battery clamps. Its much better for conducting as many amps as possible to the starter. That big mass of lead is there for a reason.

 

Threaded studs are only rated to 80 A. The studs will hold the current, but the internal connection will cause problems, if overloaded for longer times e.g. starter current, or winch. The threaded pole indicates a typical supply connection.

Exception: Odyssey batteries with a brass thread. They have a good internal connection.

Sources: Optima(Johnson Control), Odyssey(EnerSys)


Big posts-huge currents-good!

small posts - tiny constant currents - bad!

 

Alright. Next time I go in, I'll ask if they have any others. Their battery selections was kinda low when I went in a few days ago.

I think my plans with the truck have changed since I'm trying to enlist in the military and if I do, I'll probably just fix the little necessary things and when I start making enough get a newer truck for a DD and either frame off restore this one or make a play rig.

 

DZL man, if you upgrade the batteries make sure you also upgrade the altenator.

Why?

Simple reason. Car Batteries love to be in a charged state. If you keep them in a half charged state they will die earlier. A typical charge state in a conventional setup with an acid Battery is around 70%. If you drop the charge status below 50% you decrease battery live significantly and reduce the ammount of possible charge/discharge cycles.

AGM batteries are different- they are charged in a up to 90% state.
Thats why everybody say they have more power. They don't- they are only able to keep the charge way better than conventional batteries.

So to keep them charged you have to deliver more amps with a more powerful alternator- you also want to be able to use that huge capacity any time- so you must supply the needed amps to the batteries.

 

Ok. Thank you. I was worried about that for getting a really big battery but wasn't sure on the group 31s. I'm not going to lie here, an alternator is alternator to me. What do I need to know for looking for a bigger one and any ideas where I can find one for a reasonable price?

 

junkyard?
At least I got most of the replacement alternators from there. simply replacing worn brushes and bearings (50 bucks) and you are good to go the next 100kmiles.

It is simple.
Just look into any internet comparison chart. Check the model you have and things like connectors, regulator, clockwise or counterclockwise turning, space you have available, internal or external regulated and then look for bigger A ratings with all other specs remaining the same. Mostly dealers can tell you an alternative- then look at a junkyard for that model. Or the convenient, but expensive way- look at meangreen.com. But they sell 200A monsters.

You can see how good a battery is- when I start my engine, the alternator gets really extrem hot right after starting. Thats the current, demanded by the battery. The battery wants immedeatley to have back all current being used by the starting process.

With an acid battery this won't happen. Current is always limited. Thats one of the reasons why acid batteries fail during winter. They won't demand charge or better expressed- they dont accept the charge.

 

Oh, I forgot- the bolts have to be mounted in the same pattern. It will give you major headaches if the bolt pattern is different. Don't even try to build an adapter, it will snap like a chocolate bar. I tried with 1/2" steel and they broke...