If you want to save electricity, down to 0F about 2 hours is plenty on the block heater. Most are 400 to 650 watts, so plan accordingly (What is that: about 5 amps max?).

Didn't know about the 'auto eject' plugs. Might have to look into that . . . .

I was told not to start it while plugged in. I do all the time and haven't had any trouble burning out the element. I figured if it does I will just replace it and decide then if I will stop doing it that way or not. I just do it while getting ready to leave so it will help that much more to warm it up.

When it's 30F and below, use a winter front cover. You will be amazed at how much it will help it to warm up. On a Cummins, it is easy to drive more than 6 miles and not have it fully warmed up. There is a lot of coolant, and engine block to warm up. I don't know on the other brands, but it is super easy to just make the cover for the Dodge. I'd be glad to show any one how and share pics.

The reason I mention the distance is so everyone will pay attention to how long it 'should' take to warm up. If it starts taking longer or doesn't warm up to what it used to, then you probably need to change your thermostat. They can either fail by staying shut and making your truck over heat or by opening too soon so it won't warm up properly. Either is not good!

Do you all know not to let one idle without an 'idle' aide (An exhaust brake or high idle function)? Without a load a diesel won't warm up properly so starting it up and idling to warm it up in the morning won't do it. In fact, if you idle it very long, you are actually hurting your engine! What happens is the cylinder temps are so low that all the fuel doesn't burn. Some will condense on the walls and will wash the oil off the cylinder wall and rings. This will tend to score the cylinder walls ruining the engine. Yes it may take a while to accomplish this, but this is one of those things that I can't tell you an exact time or temps or other conditions. It is just good practice to not idle them for extended times without the aides I mentioned above.
Mine, I will start it, idle it for just a couple of minutes and then head out gently. I just drive easy to let it warm up out on the road. If I'm going to be idling very long I engage the exhaust brake and put the trans in drive. Those two loads will warm it up amazingly fast. And it will help the trans warm up so it will actually shift into overdrive when I do go (You do know about not idling any stock Chrylser trans in park, don't you? It doesn't circulate any oil in park which is not ideal for a freshly started, unlubricated machine. I always start mine in neutral and idle it in neutral because of this design defect. I plan on modding the valve body to fix this someday.

Oh, along with keeping an eye on how long it takes to warm up (To check the condition of the thermostat!) if it won't start like it used to without being plugged in, you need to check your glow plug system. It is easy to check, just ask if you need any help. On some PowerStrokes you want this system in good shape so it won't burn up the wiring / plugs / connectors on the valve cover where it goes in the valve cover and on inside to the glow plugs.

 

good write up man, somethings i didn't know in there i also took notice the other day, i had to tear out my juice and attitude, and it was crazy cold out, but that block was nice to work next to with it pluged in, i couldn't beleave the difference it makes.

 

I plug mine in all the time at home when the temps go below 32 degrees and have had zero issues.The bill does not increase as mush as the naysayers claim and it will sit all night long that way at home in the cold months.At work we do not have that option so it will sit outside unplugged and starts Ok but there is a noticable difference.

Warm up time with mine in cold weather is generally short as I have the Flex-A-Lite fans on my truck and they never run like the factory fan does when it spins all the time.If its excessily cold then I slip on a set of Lund Screen fronts and limit the amount of air going into the bumper holes and grill.My bumper inserts stay in all year long to help protect the charge air cooler and the grill inserts are put in as they are needed when its cold outside.

 

We have those on our fire trucks too down at the station had too many guys tearin out of the station going to fires and forgetting to unplug the cords and tearing up stuff. The ejectors work pretty well will spit a cord about 5ft.

 

i never plug mine in, the 6.9 or the dmax.

i do have the factory winter front from gmc, a must get. i love mine. 1-2 miles down road and heat is starting to come out vents. also holds heat in alot longer when shut off.
heres one on ebay

CHEVY SILVERADO DURAMAX WINTER GRILLE COVER:eBay Motors (item 330390270419 end time Jan-03-10 12:41:07 PST)

 

I was thinking about trying something like this on the tranny. My buddy had him on his trucks in Alaska where it gets to -50. Had one on the battery, one on the radiator, one on the oil pan, and one on the transmission

Flexible Heater Pads. The best car heater, diesel engine heater, replaces block heater, magnetic heater, ideal for volkswagen beetle,

 

I let mine run all the time. I only plug it in if it gets 10-15 degrees. I start it in the morning and let it run. Then at work if its been sitting for a while. I have a ts chip with the high idle setting and i love it! Warms itself up in like 10 min in the AM!

 

I didn't know about the trans in park while warming up I'll start putting mi e in neutral while I warm it up. I do t go to the cold that often but right now I'm in Wyoming helping my mom out as she tore her acl and had to have surgery on her knee. She has 4 horses and 4 dogs so I came up to help her. Thanx for the info. I know it an old thread buy a good one
Mark

 

On fords they have a cold weather programming in the PCM that kicks the idle up in colder climates.


Strokin' Away