Just wanted to get the word out on a new Diesel engine. The engine is called a Buck Marine Diesel.

I work at Buck Marine Diesel. We are currently developing a prototype diesel engine specifically designed for inboard marine use. We're still working on things right now. We're getting VERY close to getting the first prototype fully up and running. We had it running yesterday for about an hour at around 2000 rpm without any problems. We need to do a little more work to get our dyno fully-functional but things are going good.

We are currently working on a 6-cylinder model with 3- and 4-cylinder models to follow. The engines have a unique two injector per cylinder design that will increase the fuel mapping potential exponentially and result in lower emissions capability. The family of engines will range from 150 to 700 HP and have been designed from the bottom up with a totally different approach. These engines are capable of exceptional cooling, allowing for substantial improvements in power output while increasing longevity.

The cooling path for this engine is a fraction of most engines. In the classic designs, coolant flows into the front of the engine, all the way back to the rear cylinder, then back out the front. This means that the rear cylinder is always receiving water that has already been heated by the previous cylinders.

In the Buck Marine system, the coolant flows individually into and out of each cylinder. This means that the all of the cylinders will be operating at the same temperature at all times. Using individual and shorter cooling paths, will also help eliminate hot spots and temperature stacking.

The engine also has a dual cooling system that uses both an internal coolant as well as circulating raw water from whatever body of water the boat is in. This cooling system will keep the engine running cool, allowing us to generate more power. If a problem should arise, the engine is also very serviceable.

The modular cylinder design allows for easy maintenance. With our design, you can change an individual cylinder, head, piston, and connecting rod without having to remove the crank case. We are estimating that the entire upper half of the engine (cylinders, heads, pistons, and connecting rods ) could be entirely replaced in about 2 hours time. Each of the aforementioned parts is also interchangeable with each of the other cylinders. In addition, nearly every seal is made with an o-ring of some form, meaning that the gasket set for the entire engine can fit in a gallon-sized plastic bag. These two factors will significantly reduce part inventory. A video of the connecting rod replacement procedure is available on the website.

Since we didn't have the dyno working properly yesterday, we're not positive on the actual power numbers. However, while running under a moderate load at about 2000 rpm, the exhaust temperatures were around 1000 degrees F. We ran under those conditions for about 15 minutes. The hottest that the coolant pump got was about 120 degrees F. None of the 6 heads were over 140 degrees and all of them were within about 5 degrees of one another. You could lay your hands on top of the valve covers.

Check out our website for further pictures and videos.

Feel free to ask any questions that you have.

 

sounds like some good ideas. what kind of boats do yall plan on installing them on

 

We don't have a specific type. Pretty much any boat with an inboard engine that needs at least 300 HP.

 

every body needs 300 ponies, so there are 6 seperate cylinders that just as an example you throw a rod thru the side of #3 cylinder you just take that whole cylinder off and replace it with a new one, am i on the right track???

 

once they come out do you have any idea what the cost of one of these engines will be? If it's not something astronomical sounds like it might be a good engine for an over the road truck or even a pickup truck. EVERYBODY is always looking for an engine that's easier to work on than the manufacturer design. I swear sometimes it seems like they purposely design them so a majority of people will have to bring them to the dealer to be worked on.

 

absolutely they make it so the average joe cant work on em, a 700 hp crate diesel engine that would be the bomb

 

YOU READ MY MIND!!!!! I'm just almost scared to see what one of these engines is gonna cost with them being new and a revolutionary new design and all.

 

well lets see a new CR Cummins is what about 6k-7k?? so a brand new engine im guessin one of the first ones when they start to produce them maybe like 12k-15k but think of the potential if you could get some programming to "tweak" the fuel mapping even more with the two injector per cylinder you could hit 1000-1200 ponies probably pretty easy, which when you look at the cost to get a truck with a cummins to run that you probably wont be that far off in price difference.

 

Yep. As long as you don't do any damage to your main or cam bearings, you don't even need to drain the oil out! Or if you burn out#3, you take off #3 and replace it without having to remove any of the other cylinders. This is the procedure to replace a single cylinder:

1. Drain the Coolant
2. Take the intake and exhaust manifolds loose, not off just loose
3. Remove the injector lines
4. Remove the valve cover of that cylinder (2 bolts)
5. Remove the coolant plug for that cylinder (2 bolts)
6. Remove the head bolts (4 bolts)
7. Lift off the head
8. Lift off the cylinder jug
9. Remove the connecting rod (2 bolts coming in from the top)
10. Lift out connecting rod and piston
11. Installation is the same in reverse

You don't even need to do 9 and 10 if you're not replacing the rod bearing. There is a video that shows all of this on our website.

We're estimating rebuilding everything other than the crank and cam and their bearings to take about 2 hours. That's for 6 cylinders, heads, pistons, connecting rods, and rod bearings.

As for cost, we should be comparable with Cummins marine engines. As of now, the only OTR application we have slated is to try putting one in my boss's Tahoe.

 

let us know how it goes and what kind of tranny you're able to bolt it up to. doubt I'd even try to put it in the Dodge, but a 50's model Ford?